Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition

Makalu — a fierce and elegant pyramid rising from the wild Himalayas.

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Expedition Overview

Are you ready to conquer a tough technical challenge at 8,485 meters (27,838 ft) high?

Mount Makalu, named the "Great Black" giant, offers a strong sense of isolation and beauty in its pyramid-like shape. It’s for purists—the climber who prefers the peace and quiet of the Barun Valley to the crowds on more popular routes.

The Mt. Makalu Expedition 2027 with AltiPro Adventures is for the best of the best adventurers. It’s a journey that will take you from high-altitude trekking to real alpinism.

The route requires strong skills to conquer the steep, hard granite of the French Couloir and the windy Southeast ridges.

Every tough step and hard breath will lead to one ultimate goal: the summit, an experience few will ever have.

It’s not just a climb, though—it’s a test of your mental strength, your skills, and your inner limits.

The fifth-highest point on Earth awaits you. Are you ready to claim it?

Overview of Makalu Expedition 2027

Peak Name Makalu / Sagarmatha Service Full Board Service
Country Nepal Duration 60 Days
Route Northwest Ridge via Makalu La Grade Extreme / Technical
Range Mahalangur Himal Best Season Spring (Apr–May)
Max Elevation 8,485 m / 27,838 ft Walking / Day 6–7 Hours
Accommodation Hotel / Lodge / Tent Group Size 2–8 Pax
Arrival 10 April 2027 Fixed Departure 12 April 2027
Trip Ends 10 June 2027    

The first ascent of Mt. Makalu was achieved on 15 May 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, part of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. What was unprecedented in the history of Himalayan climbing was that almost the entire French team reached the summit in just three consecutive days. The present route on the Northeast Ridge via the Makalu La is the standard route, which is a tough, logical, and spectacular route from Base Camp to the summit pyramid.

The expedition is suitable for experienced climbers who have already summited one or more peaks of 7,000m (22,966 ft) or higher in height. This expedition is not for novices who want to attempt their first 8,000er. This expedition represents the true experience—well-managed, safety-oriented, and small in numbers to provide individual attention without compromises.

Why Choose AltiPro Adventures for Makalu 2027?

The 2027 Makalu Spring Climbing Season This climbing season, the 2027 Makalu Spring, is one of the most well-supported climbing seasons in the history of the mountain. The weather, the route, the approach, and the overall culture surrounding the ascent of the mountain are all more supportive and conducive to a successful climb.

Sharper Weather Planning With summit-specific weather forecasts, updated every six hours by a dedicated high-altitude weather service, the climber gets a significant advantage in planning the ascent to the summit of the mountain. The climber can now wait for a 48-hour weather window to begin the ascent, rather than risking the elements.

Advanced Oxygen Support Each climber gets five 4-liter oxygen cylinders, a personally fitted summit mask, and a regulator. The climber also gets extra oxygen cylinders placed at each of the high camps, strategically positioned for the ascent to the summit. The climber uses the oxygen from Camp III and continues to use it on the descent.

Smaller, More Focused Climbing Teams Unlike the mass-roster approach adopted by most climbing companies, the 2027 Makalu Expedition focuses on a more safety-conscious approach, a more focused climbing team, and a more personalized sherpa support staff.

Safety-Forward Climbing Structure An on-site expedition doctor will be at the Makalu Base Camp for the entire climbing season. Oxygen Saturation Levels are checked on a daily basis, and a Hyperbaric Chamber Bag will also be on standby in case of altitude sickness. Every risk assessment and safety consideration will be accounted for and implemented on the mountain.

Northeast Ridge Route — Makalu via the Makalu La

The Northwest Ridge forms the "normal route," which is far more technically challenging than the conventional routes to the summit of Everest. It starts from the Advanced Base Camp (5,700 m or 18,701 ft) by traversing four high camps before reaching the final steep climb to the summit of the mountain. This route is the favorite of the world's best climbers because of the level of technical challenge involved in the climb as well as the level of isolation of the higher elevations of the mountain.

High Glacier Navigation — From Advanced Base Camp to Camp I (5,700m or 18,701 ft - 6,300m or 20,669 ft)

The transition from ABC to the higher elevations involves traversing the complex Chago Glacier. In contrast to the Khumbu Icefall, the primary challenges in traversing the glacier relate to crevasses as well as the steep headwall that needs to be overcome to reach the glacial plateau. We deploy fixed ropes by our team of expert Sherpas to assist in traversing the most challenging areas of the glacier. These traversals are conducted in the early morning hours, i.e., between 3:00 a.m. and 6:00 a.m.

Acclimatization Rotations

1st Rotation: Chago Glacier – Camp I (6,300m or 20,669 ft) overnight – Upper Glacier – Camp II (6,700m or 21,982 ft) – Return to Makalu Base Camp.

2nd Rotation: Camp I – Camp II (overnight) – Makalu La – Camp III (7,400m or 24,278 ft) – Return to Base Camp.

Use of supplemental oxygen typically begins during the push to the Makalu La on this rotation to ensure safety as you enter the upper atmosphere.

Camp Breakdown

Camp I – Chago Glacier Plateau (6,300m or 20,669 ft): Your first night away from Base Camp. Situated on a broad glacial plateau after navigating the technical headwall, this camp offers a stark, beautiful introduction to the thinning air of the Himalayas.

Camp II – Advanced Base Camp (6,700m or 21,982 ft): The tactical hub for the upper mountain. Featuring a dedicated kitchen and dining setup, this is your primary home for rest and recovery before the technical push to the saddle.

Camp III – The Makalu La (7,400m or 24,278 ft): A physically demanding climb on 50–55 degree fixed-rope ice slopes. Reaching this narrow saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse is where supplemental oxygen becomes essential for your safety and performance.

Camp IV – High Camp (7,800m or 25,591 ft): The "Death Zone" launchpad. You arrive here to rest for just a few hours and hydrate before the midnight push to the pinnacle begins.

Final Summit Attempt (8,485m or 27,838 ft): Leaving between 10 PM and midnight in the darkness. You will ascend the technical French Couloir, a steep ice and rock wall, 50-60 degrees, to gain the knife-edged summit pyramid. At 8,485 meters above sea level, you will see Everest, Lhotse, and Kangchenjunga on the horizon on a clear day. The descent is a 14-18 hour round trip, with oxygen flowing until you reach the lower safety camps.

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Detailed Itinerary

Click on each day to view details

Day Program Meals Accom.
1 Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel B Hotel
2 Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition Briefing and Preparation B/D Hotel
3 Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Num (1,560m or 5,118 ft) B/L/D Lodge
4 Trek from Num to Seduwa (1,510m or 4,954 ft) B/L/D Lodge
5 Trek from Seduwa to Tashi Gaun (2,070m or 6,791 ft) B/L/D Lodge
6 Acclimatization at Tashi Gaun (Rest Day) B/L/D Lodge
7 Trek from Tashi Gaun to Khongma (3,760m or 12,336 ft) B/L/D Lodge
8 Trek from Khongma to Dobato (4,010m or 13,156 ft) B/L/D Lodge
9 Trek from Dobato to Yangle Kharka (3,640m or 11,942 ft) B/L/D Lodge
10 Trek from Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka (4,450m or 14,600 ft) B/L/D Lodge
11 Trek from Langmale Kharka to Makalu Lower Basecamp (4,850m or 15,912 ft) B/L/D Tent
12 Acclimatization in Lower Base Camp (Rest day) B/L/D Tent
13 Trek from Lower Base camp to Higher Base Camp (5,600m or 18,373 ft) B/L/D Tent
14 - 29 Move from Basecamp to Camps I, II, and III, then return to Basecamp. B/L/D High Camp
30 - 40 Climb from Base Camp to the Makalu Summit (8,485m) and descend back to Base Camp. B/L/D High Camp
41 Higher Base Camp cleanup & packing B/L/D Tent
42 Trek to Lower Base Camp B/L/D Tent
43 Trek from Makalu Lower Base Camp to Yangle Kharka B/L/D Lodge
44 Trek from Yangle Kharka to Khongma B/L/D Lodge
45 Trek from Khongma to Seduwa B/L/D Lodge
46 Drive from Seduwa to Num and drive to Khandbari B/L/D Lodge
47 Drive from Khandbari to Tumlingtar - Fly to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel Breakfast Hotel
48 Rest in Kathmandu Breakfast Hotel

Services

Includes

  • ✅ Airport – Hotel transfers (Pick Up and Drop) by private vehicle.

  • ✅ 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) – single room on bed and breakfast plan.

  • ✅ One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with office staff.

  • ✅ Domestic Flight: Kathmandu – Tumlingtar and drive to Num; return drive from Num to Tumlingtar and fly back to Kathmandu, as per itinerary.

  • ✅ Up to 60 kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters.

  • ✅ 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at Base Camp.

  • ✅ Well-managed base camp set up for members & staff (includes meals, accommodation, and hygiene).

  • ✅ Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.

  • ✅ Single Tent, foam mattresses, and pillow per member.

  • ✅ 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication Tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staff Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, tables & chairs, and all necessary cooking gear.

  • ✅ Heater at base camp in dining and other necessary camps.

  • ✅ Internet facility at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).

  • ✅ Assistance for cargo clearance in Nepal’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.

  •  ✅ Expedition Royalty and permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. MAKALU, MAKALU BARUN National Park entry permit and fee.

  • ✅ 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.

  • ✅ Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.

  • ✅ Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.

  • ✅ Trekking and climbing map.

  • ✅ All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (by air cargo / Truck) and Base Camp (by Porters) – while returning: Base Camp to Tumlingtar (by porters) and Tumlingtar to Kathmandu (by air cargo / Truck). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may be adopted.

  • ✅ Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters.

  • ✅ All necessary logistic arrangements for camping during the trek.

  • ✅ All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.

  • ✅ Weather forecast report regularly during the entire expedition.

  • ✅ Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.

  • ✅ Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.

  • ✅ Comprehensive medical kit for members and staff.

  • ✅ High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.

  • ✅ Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).

  • ✅ Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at basecamp by UIAGM Guide.

  • ✅ 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.

  • ✅ Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.

  • ✅ Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.

  • ✅ Summit Oxygen cylinder: 4 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.

  • ✅ 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.

  • ✅ BACK UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).

  • ✅ The team of experienced Sherpas (including personal Sherpa) will fix the route in MAKALU (no extra charge will be applied to members).

  • ✅ MAKALU climbing certificate (after climbing Mt. MAKALU successfully).

  • ✅ Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.

  • ✅ Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members WITH APPROPRIATE CHARGE.

  • ✅ Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.

Excludes

  • ❌ International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).

  • ❌ Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.

  • ❌ Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) Mandatory.

  • ❌ Personal Medical Kit (also included under personal equipment but relevant for medical coverage).

  • ❌ Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.

  • ❌ Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.

  • ❌ Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).

  • ❌ Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation than scheduled itinerary).

  • ❌ Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu; soft drinks provided at base camp).

  • ❌ Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.

  • ❌ Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa – Minimum 1500 USD.

  • ❌ Calculate tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.

  • ❌ Any other services or activities not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “COST INCLUDES” section.

Departure

Departure

From

Apr 04, 2026

To

Jun 02, 2026

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Expedition Details

Peak Name

Makalu Expedition

Duration

48 - 55 Days

Max Elevation

8,485 m / 27,837.93 ft

Best Seasons

Winter

Region

Mahalangur Range

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Route Map

Makalu Expedition Route Map
Map view of Makalu Expedition

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about this expedition

Yes, Sherpas are an integral part of our package, and we guarantee a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio for every member. This dedicated support ensures your personal guide is with you from Base Camp to the summit and back. Additional Sherpas can also be provided upon request for those seeking extra assistance.

 The Makalu Expedition is widely considered one of the most technically demanding 8,000m objectives in the world. While Everest is often more crowded, Makalu requires a higher level of technical proficiency to navigate sections like the French Couloir—a steep 50–60 degree mixed gully of ice and rock in the "Death Zone". Physical fitness and prior high-altitude experience are mandatory, as the mountain’s isolation and steep technical ridges offer no easy path to the top.

 

The full expedition spans 60 days, starting from your arrival in Kathmandu and ending with your final return. This duration allows for a deep, non-compressible acclimatization schedule and multiple weather-dependent buffer days to identify the perfect summit window.

 

Makalu is generally not recommended as a first 8,000m peak unless the climber is exceptionally prepared and technically proficient. It is a prestigious and remote mountain that demands previous experience on technical high-altitude peaks.

 

Yes, AltiPro requires a minimum qualification of at least one successful 7,000m+ technical summit. Climbers must possess documented experience with fixed-rope handling on steep ice (50 degrees or higher) and be proficient with crampons, ice axes, jumars, and descenders.

 

The primary risks include altitude sickness (AMS, HAPE, or HACE), technical falls on steep rock and ice, and extreme weather conditions like high-velocity winds . The remote nature of the Barun Valley also means that logistical support and rescue timing are critical, which is why we maintain helicopter standby throughout the season.

 

The best time is the Spring season, typically in April and May. During late April, the Himalayan jet stream shifts, opening more stable summit windows. We specifically time our summit attempts for mid-to-late May to capitalize on these favorable pre-monsoon weather patterns.

 

Climbing Makalu requires several official government permits, which are fully included in our package:

  1. Makalu Climbing Permit (Royalty Fee): A mandatory fee of approximately USD 3,000 for the Spring season (as of September 2025).
  2. Makalu-Barun National Park Entry Permit: Required for accessing the conservation area.
  3. Local Rural Municipality Permit: For entry into the specific mountain region.

 Safety is our first priority, and we implement several rigorous protocols to manage the risks of the "Great Black" mountain:

  • Medical Oversight: A qualified Expedition Doctor is stationed at Base Camp for the full season, conducting daily oxygen saturation monitoring at all camps.
  • Supplemental Oxygen: Each climber is provided with 5 x 4-litre cylinders with personally fitted summit masks; oxygen use typically begins at Camp III (7,400m).
  • Advanced Equipment: We maintain a Gamow Bag (portable hyperbaric chamber) at Base Camp for immediate treatment of high-altitude emergencies.
  • Precision Forecasting: We utilize 6-hourly summit-specific weather forecasts to ensure we never gamble on the elements.
  • 1:1 Technical Support: Our certified Sherpa guides are summit veterans who manage fixed ropes and technical route preparation to ensure secure passage through the French Couloir.




 

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