Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
Expedition Overview
What is the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition?
Putha Hiunchuli (7,246 m / 23,773 ft), also known as Dhaulagiri VII, is the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri massif, rising in the Dolpo region of far western Nepal. It was first summited in 1954 by Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa via the Northeast Face — the same standard route used today. The mountain stands on the border of Dolpa and Rukum, deep within one of Nepal's most remote and culturally rich alpine landscapes. The approach through the Bheri River valley and upper Dolpo plateau passes traditional villages, remote passes, and the legendary "German Base Camp" — a setting that few Himalayan climbers ever experience.
The Northeast Face / North Ridge route ascends through three high camps via sustained snow slopes of 35–40 degrees before reaching the upper North Ridge at Camp III (6,350 m). From Camp III, a pre-dawn push along the North Ridge delivers views of the full Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges from the summit at 7,246 m. The route is technically accessible for climbers with solid 6,000-metre experience, making Putha Hiunchuli one of the most recommended first 7,000-metre objectives in Nepal — a genuine high-altitude challenge without the extreme technical demands of the 8,000-metre giants.
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2027 by AltiPro Adventures is a 35-day full-board Autumn expedition departing Kathmandu on 25 September 2027. Limited to a maximum of 10 climbers with a guaranteed 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio, three structured acclimatization rotations, and an Expedition Doctor at Base Camp for the full season. AltiPro requires documented experience above 5,500 m and proficiency on fixed ropes and crampons on 35–40 degree snow.
Why Climb Putha Hiunchuli?
The 2027 Putha Hiunchuli Autumn Climbing Season
The Autumn season in the Dolpo region is a peaceful and serene time for high-altitude climbing. After the monsoons, the weather provides good snow on the Northeast Face and clear views of the Dhaulagiri range, creating ideal conditions for a successful climb.
Better Weather Planning
Summit weather forecasts are issued every six hours through a specialist high-altitude weather service. AltiPro waits for a confirmed 48-hour stable window before beginning the push from Camp III, rather than risking the upper ridge in uncertain conditions.
Advanced Oxygen Support
High-quality oxygen cylinders are provided for every climber along with a personal summit mask and regulator. Extra cylinders are pre-positioned at the high camps for the summit push and for medical emergencies on the upper mountain.
Smaller, More Focused Climbing Teams
AltiPro limits the 2027 Putha Hiunchuli team to a maximum of 10 climbers. This provides a safer and more personalized experience where every member has dedicated 1:1 Sherpa support from Base Camp to the summit and back.
Safety-Forward Climbing Structure
An Expedition Doctor is present at Base Camp throughout the season with daily health and oxygen saturation monitoring. A Gamow Bag is on standby for altitude emergencies and helicopter evacuation is arranged before the team departs Kathmandu.
The Premier First 7,000m Objective
Putha Hiunchuli is one of Nepal's most recommended stepping stones from 6,000m to 7,000m climbing. The Northeast Face is technically accessible, the Dolpo approach is unlike any other in the Himalayas, and the summit views across the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges are among the finest at this altitude.
Northeast Face / North Ridge Route — Standard Ascent (7,246m)
The Northeast Face Route begins at Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4,900 m) and rises through three high camps before reaching the summit at 7,246 m. First climbed in 1954 by Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa, it is the standard and most accessible line on the mountain, characterised by long wide snow slopes and the quiet beauty of the Dolpo region. The approach from Juphal through the Bheri River valley and upper Dolpo plateau is one of the most remote and culturally rich Himalayan approaches available.
Dolpo Approach — Juphal to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (2,475m → 4,900m)
The 7-day approach from Juphal follows the Bheri River valley through traditional Dolpo villages, deep gorges, forested ridgelines, and remote mountain passes — including the pass crossings to German Base Camp (4,525 m). The route provides natural altitude gain and arrives at Base Camp on the moraine plateau with the Northeast Face rising directly above.
Northeast Face Navigation — Base Camp to Camp I (4,900m → 5,500m)
The lower Northeast Face rises directly from the moraine area on snow slopes with fixed ropes installed by the AltiPro Sherpa team. A 4–5 hour climb in early morning hours when the snow is firm. Camp I sits on a wide ledge and serves as the main acclimatization and storage camp for all rotations.
Camp I — Lower Northeast Face (5,500m)
A rest camp and gear storehouse used on all rotations. The first overnight above Base Camp, giving an initial feel for the altitude and scale of the Northeast Face above.
Camp II — Mid-Northeast Face (6,150m)
The main camp after the toughest mid-face climbing. A major physical milestone at 6,150 m and the primary resting base before the push to the upper North Ridge.
Camp III — Upper North Ridge (6,350m)
The last camp before the summit push. Supplemental oxygen use begins here, and this is the starting point for the final pre-dawn ascent to the summit.
Summit Push — Camp III to Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m)
Pre-dawn departure from Camp III along the North Ridge to the summit at 7,246 m. Panoramic views of the full Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges from the top. The return journey from summit to Camp II takes 5–6 hours.
Acclimatization Rotations
Three structured rotations build progressive exposure on the Northeast Face before the summit bid. The 7-day approach trek from Juphal — including an acclimatization day at Panjing (4,200 m) — provides natural altitude gain before rotations begin from Base Camp at 4,900 m. The Expedition Doctor issues individual summit clearance after the third rotation.
Base Camp → Camp I → Base Camp
4,900m → 5,500m / 16,076ft → 18,045ft
First ascent of the lower Northeast Face snow slopes and initial fixed-rope navigation. Overnight at Camp I before returning to Base Camp.
Camp I → Camp II → Base Camp
5,500m → 6,150m / 18,045ft → 20,177ft
First overnight above 6,000 m on the mid-Northeast Face. Technical mid-face sections climbed to lock in the body's acclimatization response. Return to Base Camp.
Camp II → Camp III → Base Camp
6,150m → 6,350m / 20,177ft → 20,833ft
Exposure to the upper North Ridge. Supplemental oxygen typically begins from this rotation. Final medical clearance for the summit push issued after return to Base Camp.
How Difficult is the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition?
Putha Hiunchuli is graded PD+ and is a high-altitude expedition featuring sustained snow and ice slopes of 35–40 degrees. While the technical climbing is moderate compared to 8,000-metre peaks, the altitude above 7,000 m and the remote Dolpo approach present significant challenges. Major risks include altitude sickness, avalanches on the Northeast Face, crevasse hazards, and extreme cold on the upper ridge. The remote Dolpo location also means helicopter response times can be longer than in more central regions.
Putha Hiunchuli is an ideal objective for climbers stepping up from 6,000-metre peaks. AltiPro requires documented experience above 5,500 m and proficiency on fixed ropes and crampon technique on 35–40 degree snow. While no prior 7,000-metre experience is required, a strong background on peaks like Island Peak or Mera Peak is preferred.
Best Season for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
The Autumn season (September–October) is the best and primary window for Putha Hiunchuli. Post-monsoon weather consolidates the snow on the Northeast Face and provides the clearest visibility across the Dolpo landscape. AltiPro waits for confirmed 48-hour stable windows before beginning each summit push from Camp III.
Autumn (September–October): The prime window. September covers the Dolpo approach trek and Base Camp establishment as post-monsoon weather stabilises. October delivers the most reliable summit conditions on the Northeast Face and North Ridge. The AltiPro 2027 expedition is timed specifically for this season.
Spring (April–May): A viable secondary season. Pre-monsoon weather can offer usable summit windows, though snow conditions on the Northeast Face are generally less consolidated than in Autumn.
Putha Hiunchuli Expedition Cost
Full-board package — all permits, 1:1 Sherpas, supplemental oxygen, and Expedition Doctor included.
The AltiPro Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2027 covers 4-star Kathmandu accommodation, all domestic flights (Kathmandu–Nepalgunj–Juphal), the complete permit package (Climbing Royalty, Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, TIMS), a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio, supplemental oxygen for the summit push, an on-site Expedition Doctor, and full high-camp infrastructure. International flights, personal gear, and summit bonuses are not included. Request a full quote from our expedition team.
Detailed Itinerary
Click on each day to view details
| Day | Program | Meals | Accom. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 1 | Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m) | Breakfast | Hotel | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Arrive at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer to hotel.
2
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Kathmandu — Briefing, Permits & Gear Check |
Breakfast |
Hotel |
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Expedition briefing, full gear check, official permit processing, and last-minute shopping in Kathmandu.
3
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Fly Kathmandu → Nepalgunj (154m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Hotel |
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50-minute flight to Nepalgunj. Transfer and overnight in Nepalgunj.
4
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Fly Nepalgunj → Juphal (2,475m) & Trek to Dunai (2,140m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Scenic 40-minute mountain flight over the Dolpo foothills to Juphal, then trek down to Dunai.
5
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Trek Dunai → Tarakot (2,540m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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Follow the Bheri River valley through traditional Dolpo villages and over suspension bridges.
6
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Trek Tarakot → Musi Khola (2,875m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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Trek through deep gorges, narrow canyon paths, and forested ridgelines.
7
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Trek Musi Khola → Kakot (3,020m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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First views of Putha Hiunchuli's summit ridge and the Dhaulagiri chain appear on this stage.
8
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Trek Kakot → Panjing (4,200m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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Altitude rises steeply into the upper Dolpo highland plateau.
9
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Acclimatization Day at Panjing (4,200m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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Short altitude hike with Expedition Doctor O₂ saturation check and medical review.
10
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Trek Panjing → German Base Camp (4,525m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Two mountain pass crossings with the full Dhaulagiri chain panorama opening up.
11
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Trek German Base Camp → Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4,900m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Arrive at Base Camp on the moraine plateau with the Northeast Face rising directly above.
12
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Puja Ceremony & Climbing Training |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Puja ceremony at Base Camp followed by rope-fixing briefing, climbing training, and final gear check.
13
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Rest & Acclimatization at Base Camp (4,900m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Full team medical review and altitude adaptation at 4,900m.
14 – 15
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1st Rotation — Base Camp to Camp I (5,500m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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First rotation: climb the lower Northeast Face snow slopes to Camp I overnight, then descend to Base Camp. Initial fixed-rope navigation confirmed.
16 – 17
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Rest & Recovery at Base Camp |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Expedition Doctor O₂ saturation review and ongoing weather forecast monitoring.
18 – 19
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2nd Rotation — Camp I to Camp II (6,150m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Second rotation: Camp I to Camp II overnight on the mid-Northeast Face, then return to Base Camp. First overnight above 6,000m.
20 – 21
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Rest at Base Camp — High Camp Preparations |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Final high camp preparation with oxygen allocation confirmed at Camps II and III.
22 – 23
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3rd Rotation — Camp II to Camp III (6,350m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Third rotation: Camp II to Camp III overnight on the upper North Ridge, then return to Base Camp. Supplemental oxygen typically begins. Final medical clearance issued.
24 – 25
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Full Rest at Base Camp — Summit Window Assessment |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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6-hourly forecasts reviewed and medical clearance confirmed. Summit weather window closely monitored.
26
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Summit Bid — Base Camp to Camp I (5,500m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Begin the summit push. Oxygen systems final check before moving to Camp I.
27
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Summit Bid — Camp I to Camp II (6,150m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Move from Camp I to Camp II. Rest, hydration, and summit preparation.
28
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Summit Bid — Camp II to Camp III (6,350m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Move to Camp III on the upper North Ridge. Final rest before the pre-dawn summit push.
29
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Summit Day — Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Pre-dawn departure from Camp III along the North Ridge to the summit of Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m / 23,773ft). Descend to Camp II.
30
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Descend to Base Camp — Summit Celebration |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Full descent from Camp II to Base Camp. Post-summit celebration with the full Sherpa team.
31
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Base Camp Cleanup & Equipment Packing |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Base Camp cleanup and breakdown of all expedition equipment for the return journey.
32
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Trek Base Camp → German Base Camp (4,525m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Begin the return through the Dolpo wilderness, descending to German Base Camp.
33
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Trek German Base Camp → Panjing → Kakot (3,020m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Camp |
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Return crossing of mountain passes from German Base Camp back down to Kakot.
34
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Trek Kakot → Tarakot → Dunai (2,140m) |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Return along the Bheri River valley route to Dunai.
35
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Trek Dunai → Juphal, Fly Juphal → Nepalgunj → Kathmandu |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Trek to Juphal then fly back to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj. Transfer to hotel.
36
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Celebration Day — Summit Certificates & Farewell Dinner |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Putha Hiunchuli summit certificates presented and farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
37 – 41
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Buffer Days — Weather & Flight Disruption Reserve |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Buffer days held for weather delays, a second summit window, or domestic flight disruptions in Dolpo.
42
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Final Departure from Kathmandu |
Breakfast |
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Transfer to Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport for onward international flights.
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Services
Includes
- ✅ Airport pick-up and drop for all international and domestic flights
- ✅ 4 nights 4-star hotel in Kathmandu (BB) — 2 nights pre-expedition, 2 nights post-expedition
- ✅ Welcome dinner and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- ✅ Domestic flights: Kathmandu ↔ Nepalgunj ↔ Juphal (round trip) for all team members and expedition staff
- ✅ All expedition staff transport: Kathmandu – Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp – Kathmandu
- ✅ Porters and mules / yaks: Juphal to Base Camp and back — all expedition equipment
- ✅ Full board accommodation and meals at all teahouses, lodges and camps during the approach trek and return
- ✅ Personal climbing equipment transfer: Kathmandu – Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp – Kathmandu (60 kg per member)
- ✅ Putha Hiunchuli expedition royalty fee and all official Nepal government climbing documentation
- ✅ Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve entry permit
- ✅ TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
- ✅ Garbage management and environmental deposit fee
- ✅ One official Nepal Government Liaison Officer for the full expedition duration — salary, accommodation, equipment and insurance fully included
- ✅ Nepal government taxes and company service charges
- ✅ Full expedition planning, coordination, and on-ground management
- ✅ Experienced Base Camp Manager on-site for the full climbing season
- ✅ Pre-expedition briefing pack in Kathmandu
- ✅ One walkie-talkie per Climbing Sherpa and Expedition Leader during all climbing phases
- ✅ Daily professional weather forecast service — 6-hourly Putha Hiunchuli summit-specific updates throughout
- ✅ Satellite phone at Base Camp for emergency use (minimal per-call charge applies)
- ✅ Three freshly cooked meals per day (BLD) at Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp with hot drinks — tea and coffee
- ✅ Fresh vegetables, meat, fruits, and juice restocked throughout the season
- ✅ Heated dining tent with tables and chairs at Base Camp
- ✅ AltiPro Café at Base Camp — coffee and bakery items served daily
- ✅ Private sleeping tent with mattress and pillow for every climber and staff member
- ✅ Generator for charging electronic devices at Base Camp
- ✅ Internet service at Base Camp (minimal charge)
- ✅ Sleeping tents at all high camps — Camps I, II, III (2 members per tent)
- ✅ High-altitude food at all camps: muesli, porridge, noodles, rice, soups, dry fruits, chocolate and snacks
- ✅ MSR stoves, cooking sets, EPI gas, shovels, and extra ropes at all high camps
- ✅ Common climbing equipment: fixed ropes, ice screws, ice bars, and anchoring hardware as required
- ✅ Experienced Sherpa rope-fixing team — route fully fixed to the summit before the summit push begins
- ✅ One dedicated Climbing Sherpa per climber — 1:1 ratio, guaranteed throughout
- ✅ All Climbing Sherpa, cook, kitchen helper, high-altitude porter, and Liaison Officer wages and allowances
- ✅ Insurance for all Climbing Sherpas, cooks, Liaison Officer, porters, and high-altitude staff
- ✅ Backup Sherpas on standby for substitution if required (extra charge if deployed)
- ✅ Supplemental oxygen cylinders per climber for summit push (4-litre bottles)
- ✅ Oxygen cylinders for each Climbing Sherpa (summit day)
- ✅ Summit mask and regulator set for every climber and Climbing Sherpa
- ✅ Emergency oxygen at Base Camp and all high camps
- ✅ Gamow Bag (portable hyperbaric chamber) on standby at Base Camp
- ✅ Expedition Doctor stationed at Base Camp for the full climbing season
- ✅ Helicopter and rescue team on standby for the full expedition duration
- ✅ Puja ceremony at Base Camp before climbing begins
- ✅ AltiPro expedition T-shirt and Putha Hiunchuli summit certificate (issued by MoCTCA after successful summit)
Excludes
- ❌ International flight tickets to and from your home country
- ❌ Nepal entry visa fee — obtainable on arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport
- ❌ Personal climbing gear, clothing, and footwear
- ❌ Personal satellite messenger device (Garmin inReach or similar)
- ❌ Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Nepalgunj (except the included welcome and farewell dinners)
- ❌ Personal expenses: drinks, laundry, telephone, and Wi-Fi at lodges
- ❌ Travel, medical, and high-altitude helicopter rescue insurance (Min. USD 50,000) — mandatory for all participants
- ❌ Summit bonus: USD 700 per Climbing Sherpa and USD 250 for kitchen helpers — to be paid in cash at Base Camp after a successful ascent
- ❌ Tips for trek guides, porters, and mule/yak handlers along the approach
- ❌ Extra costs due to personal baggage exceeding 60 kg
- ❌ Ski or snowboard permit fees (available on request for those wishing to ski the northern slopes — pre-booking required)
- ❌ Drone and special filming permit fees
- ❌ Costs incurred due to flight delays, cancellations, or political disruptions
Gear Lists & Useful Information
Expedition Details
Peak Name
Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
Duration
28 - 30 Days
Max Elevation
7,246 m / 23,772.97 ft
Best Seasons
Autumn
Region
Dhaulagiri Himal
Frequently Asked Questions
Find answers to common questions about this expedition
Yes, Sherpas are provided with the package and the ratio is 1:1. However, additional Sherpas can be provided as well based on the request.
Putha Hiunchuli is graded PD+ and is a high-altitude expedition featuring sustained snow and ice slopes of 35–40 degrees. While the technical climbing is moderate compared to 8,000m peaks, the altitude above 7,000m and the remote Dolpo approach present significant challenges. It is an ideal objective for climbers stepping up from 6,000m peaks.
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition takes around 35 days in total, starting from the arrival in Kathmandu and ending with the return.
Yes, it is one of the most recommended first 7,000m objectives in Nepal. The Northeast Face is technically accessible for those with solid 6,000m experience, offering a genuine high-altitude challenge without the extreme technical demands of mountains like K2 or Lhotse.
Yes, we require documented experience above 5,500 meters. Proficiency on fixed ropes and crampon technique on 35–40 degree snow is essential. While no prior 7,000m experience is required, a strong background on peaks like Island Peak or Mera Peak is preferred.
Major risks include altitude sickness, avalanches on the Northeast Face, crevasse hazards on the glacier, and extreme cold on the upper ridge. The remote Dolpo location also means helicopter response times can be longer than in more central regions.
The best time is the autumn season, from September to October. The post-monsoon weather consolidates the snow on the Northeast Face and provides the clearest visibility for the stunning Dolpo landscape.
Here are the main permit fees and required government permits if you want to climb Putha Hiunchuli from Nepal:
- Climbing Permit for Putha Hiunchuli This is the official royalty issued by the Nepal Government (MoCTCA). Permit fee for foreign climbers:
- Autumn Season (Sept to Nov): ~$500 USD/person
- Spring Season (March to May): ~$1,000 USD/person Please note: The permit fee is only a license to climb; additional costs apply for the full expedition.
- Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve Entry Permit Required for entering the protected conservation area through which the approach passes.
- TIMS Card & Local Permits Required for the approach trek through the remote Dolpo and Rukum regions.
Safety is our top priority. We implement internationally recognized standards to minimize risks:
- Experienced Leadership & 1:1 Support: Veteran 7,000m leaders and a guaranteed 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio.
- Three-Rotation Acclimatization: A structured program to allow your body to adapt gradually before the summit push.
- Health Monitoring & Medical Support: An on-site Expedition Doctor at Base Camp with daily oxygen saturation checks.
- Fixed Ropes & Route Security: Our team pre-installs ropes on all technical sections of the Northeast Face before rotations begin.
- Supplemental Oxygen & Backup Systems: Emergency oxygen is pre-positioned at Camp II and Camp III for summit attempts or medical needs.
- Precision Weather Monitoring: Six-hourly summit-specific forecasts to identify stable 48-hour windows.
- Emergency Planning: Pre-arranged helicopter rescue coordination and an on-site Gamow Bag at Base Camp.
Ready to Start Your Adventure?
Contact us to book your expedition or get more information