Mera Peak Expedition

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Expedition Overview

What is the Mera Peak Expedition?

Mera Peak (6,476m / 21,247ft) is the highest trekking peak ranked by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) in Mahalangur Himalaya in Solukhumbu district. Mera is in the remote and far away Hinku Valley south of the Everest massif, with three summits, namely Mera North (6,476m), Mera Central (6,461m) and Mera South (6,065m). Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sherpa Sen Tenzing completed the first ascent on Mera Central on 20 May 1953 which was nine days before Hillary and Norgay reached the summit of Everest. The true summit Mera North was first ascended in 1975 by Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills.

Mera Peak expedition is the ideal introduction to climbing the Himalayas at high altitudes. The route calls for glacier travel and crampon use but does not demand any advanced technical skills, and is suitable for trekkers who are well-prepared and have developed solid high altitude fitness. The view from the top is the most amazing one offered to any mountaineer on earth, seeing five of the world's eight-thousanders at once.

The trek to Mera Peak passes through the Hinku Valley, which is one of the least-travelled trekking routes in the country. Unlike the other peaks near the Everest Base Camp, Mera is not on the highway to Lukla, but rather you turn away from the crowds and walk east into an untouched valley of rhododendron forest, ancient yak pastures and pristine Himalayan wilderness. The NMA's permit system allows for smaller groups, and helps prevent the congestion that can occur on some more popular routes.

6,476m / 21,247ft North Ridge / Mera La Spring & Autumn 19 Days Hinku Valley, Nepal Alpine Grade: PD Nepal's Highest Trekking Peak

Why this mountain

Why Climb Mera Peak?

For experienced trekkers looking to get into true mountaineering, Mera Peak offers the perfect starting point for one of the six-thousanders. Individuals who are not fit for the altitude and glacier requirements of Mera Peak climbing should start training on lower treks up the Khumbu. If you are all set, here is why this high point is one of the most interesting high altitude goals in Nepal:

Nepal's Highest Trekking Peak

Mera North is the highest peak in the NMA classification of trekking peaks, which are peaks that are technically speaking 6,000m / 6,476m (21,247ft) and can be climbed with no previous technical mountaineering experience.

Five 8,000m Peaks in View

The panorama from the summit of Mera is absolutely amazing — you can see all 5 of the main peaks: Everest (8,849m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m) and Cho Oyu (8,188m) at once.

Pristine Hinku Valley

The route runs along the Hinku Valley, one of Nepal's least-visited and most remote trekking routes, where rhododendron woods, glacial streams and the pristine wilderness remain free from mass tourism.

High Success Rate

The success rate for Mera Peak is between 70–80% with proper acclimatization and favorable weather conditions. AltiPro's planned routes include the rest days that separate summit from turnaround.

Real Mountaineering Skills

The Mera Peak climbing experience develops the perfect combination of skills to prepare for technical 7,000m peaks: glacier travel, crampon technique, fixed rope ascending and high camp living.

Off the Beaten Track

The Mera Peak trekking route is a rare one in the increasingly crowded trekking landscape of Nepal, as it heads east from the Everest Base Camp route — a different direction from the usual one.

Route & Approach

Mera Peak Route & Approach

The Mera Peak climbing route is the established North Ridge route through snow and glacier, which has been the main commercial route since the opening of Mera to foreign climbers. The expedition starts in Lukla (2,840m / 9,317ft), goes over the Zatrwa La pass (4,610m / 15,125ft) into the Hinku Valley and progresses up the mountain through two high camps to the summit. A total of three high camps are set up. AltiPro's guide is responsible for fixing all ropes and setting all camps prior to the summit push.

Lukla (2,840m / 9,317ft) to Hinku Valley Approach — Khumbu to Hinku via the Zatrwa La

Take a plane to Lukla and then turn left, away from the trail to Everest Base Camp, into pine and rhododendron woods. Cross the Zatrwa La (4,610m) — the most important acclimatisation challenge on the approach — and head down steeply into the Hinku Valley. Take a 4–5 day trek north from Paiya to Panggom, to Kothe and to Khare.

Khare / Base Camp — 5,045m / 16,552ft

Mera Peak climbing is centered around Khare. Accommodation is available in the teahouse — one of the highest points in the Khumbu where hot meals and lodging are still available. The AltiPro itinerary has an acclimatisation day in Khare and an optional carry to Mera La before any camp is set up above.

Mera La — 5,415m / 17,765ft

The route then rises a moraine to Mera La, a wide flat high pass, the section at the beginning of which has an ice face that rises at 40 degrees, necessitating the use of crampons and a fixed rope for the first 50 metres from Khare. The road from La leads onto the broad Mera Glacier towards the summit. Camp I is set up just above the acclimatisation rotation pass.

High Camp — 5,780m / 18,963ft

High Camp is located on a stable snow slope with uninterrupted views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and the entire Himalayan panorama. All equipment for the summit push is set up here. The majority of climbers do a straight ascent from High Camp at the pre-dawn hours. High Camp is set up by the AltiPro team before the summit bid leaves Khare.

Summit — 6,476m / 21,247ft

Departure before dawn. The track ascends at a steady rate of snow slopes from High Camp, picking up steepness as the narrow north ridge leads to the summit cornice. On the summit of Mera North at 6,476m / 21,247ft you can admire 5 eight-thousanders. Round trip from High Camp: approximately 7–10 hours. On the return leg of the trip you travel back to Khare through High Camp and the Mera La.

Difficulty

How Difficult is the Mera Peak Climb?

Mera Peak is of Alpine Grade PD and is not a suitable peak for the complete beginner. Experience of hiking above 4,000m and physical fitness are required. Prior technical climbing experience is not required, but the climber must be comfortable with crampons, basic glacier travel and with fixed rope. It is a good stepping stone for those who have been through trails like the Everest Base Camp trek and would like to head towards higher summits like Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349ft) or Himlung Himal (7,126m / 23,379ft).

Overall difficulty

7 / 10

Technical climbing

4 / 10

Physical demand

7.5 / 10

Altitude challenge

7 / 10

Remoteness

7.5 / 10

There is no serious and difficult technical crux on the North Ridge and Mera La route, but the elevation of the Mera Peak is 6,476m, which is real altitude: cold, serious and demanding. Even the upper slopes that are not technical can be more demanding than fitness alone without proper acclimatisation. AltiPro never crams the itinerary — each rest day is for a physiological reason.

Best season

Best Season for Mera Peak Expedition

The Mera Peak climbing season is very good, there are two good seasons of climbing in Mera. Most climbers prefer to do their climbing in the spring, and autumn is the best time for stability and clarity. Both seasons are fully operated by AltiPro Adventures with complete expedition services.

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Ideal season Possible Not recommended

Spring (April–May): Spring season is the peak season when people visit Nepal to climb Mera. The ideal period is April and May when there is stable pre-monsoon weather, milder weather at High Camp and excellent visibility throughout the Hinku Valley. AltiPro gives a focus to the summit days in late April and early May. Slots book up quickly, and booking early is crucial.

Autumn (October–November): The best mountain visibility of the year is from post-monsoon autumn. October and November are really a great time, as the fresh snow on the Mera Glacier, settled weather and excellent views of the five eight-thousanders from Mera Peak summit. Fewer permits available than in spring and equally good conditions at the summits.

Cost & packages