Amadablam Expedition
Ama Dablam — the jewel of the Himalayas, steep, stunning, and unforgettable.
Expedition Overview
What is the Ama Dablam Expedition?
The most famous technical peak of Nepal is Ama Dablam (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) which stands above the Khumbu Valley in Sagarmatha National Park. Climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop and Mike Ward up the Southwest Ridge, it is one of the most coveted climbing objectives in the world.
Ama Dablam, which is known to the Nepalis as the Mother's Necklace, is a classic example of the technical alpine skills required: rock, ice and mixed terrain at altitude. In contrast to the trekking peaks in Nepal this is a true mountaineering objective from Camp I onward.
The Ama Dablam expedition permit quota helps to keep the mountain controlled and uncrowded. For alpinists who have already demonstrated their abilities on such peaks as Mera Peak (6,476 m / 21,247 ft) and are prepared for a real technical challenge before confronting Manaslu (8,163 m / 26,781 ft) or the 8,000m peaks, it is natural that they will want to go to Baruntse (6,870 m / 22,867 ft) first.
Why Climb Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam is not a stepping stone, it is the goal. If you are not ready for the technical aspects of this peak, then you should climb Mera Peak (6,476 m / 21,247 ft) first. This is why Ama Dablam is one of the most sought-after objectives in the Himalayas:
The Matterhorn of the Himalayas
Ama Dablam with her sharp profile is the most photographed peak in the Khumbu. The summit is the site of a visual and technical statement which is unmatched by any other 6,000m peak in Nepal.
Genuine Technical Climbing
Rock traverses, mixed terrain and fixed rope above 6,000m near vertical. The Ama Dablam climb requires not only endurance but also true alpine skills from Camp I upwards.
Unmatched Summit Panorama
At 6,812 m, Ama Dablam offers a clear view of the entire Himalayan range including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu — one of the best panoramic summit views in the world.
The Dablam Hanging Glacier
The route strategy is set by the iconic Dablam glacier, with all three high camps located beyond its fall line. This is a real alpine challenge in managing this objective hazard.
Classic Khumbu Approach
The approach to Ama Dablam Base Camp follows the route from Lukla through Sherpa villages, Namche, and Tengboche Monastery — the world's greatest mountain trekking corridor.
The Alpine Benchmark
A successful Ama Dablam expedition is the natural next step after trekking-peak climber and before committing to the serious alpinist objectives at 8,000m and above.
Ama Dablam Route & Approach
The Ama Dablam route follows the Southwest Ridge, which is the route of the 1961 first ascent and the only commercial route on the mountain. The route consists of three high camps set up and fixed by AltiPro's Sherpa team on continuously exposed and technical terrain from Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600 m / 15,091 ft), before your first rotation.
Kathmandu → Lukla → Namche → Base Camp
Khumbu Valley Approach Trek. Fly to Lukla (2,840 m) and trek through Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), Tengboche (3,860 m) and Dingboche (4,360 m) to reach Ama Dablam Base Camp. This 7–8 day itinerary gives time for acclimatisation and offers a view directly under the foot of Tengboche Monastery, and the entire south side wall of Ama Dablam.
Base Camp — 4,600 m / 15,091 ft
Trees and shrubs grow on the rocky moraine below the Southwest Ridge. AltiPro's Base Camp comes equipped with a heated dining tent, private sleeping tents, an entire kitchen team and an Expedition Doctor. The Puja ceremony is held here prior to climbing.
Camp I — 5,600 m / 18,373 ft
As the ridge narrows, a moraine walk leads to the first fixed ropes. The first point of full exposure is at Camp I, located on narrow ledges of granite. Everything above this camp is climbed using fixed ropes.
Camp II — 5,900 m / 19,357 ft
Narrow technical traverses and short harder pitches that demand proper climbing technique make up the crux rock section of the route. Camp II is located strategically outside the fall stream of the Dablam hanging glacier above.
Camp III — 6,200 m / 20,341 ft
The Grey Tower and Mushroom Ridge take you through mixed terrain of rock, ice and snow to Camp III. This is the last high camp and summit launch point, located atop the Dablam.
How Difficult is the Ama Dablam Climb?
Ama Dablam is not recommended for climbers without any technical experience on rock and mixed terrain. Extensive experience on a technical 6,000m peak like Mera Peak (6,476 m / 21,247 ft) and a good knowledge of rock climbing and ice technique are required. Ama Dablam requires true alpine skills from Camp I onwards, unlike Himlung Himal (7,126 m / 23,379 ft).
The height of 6,812 m is just below 7,000 m however the Grey Tower, Mushroom Ridge and near-vertical summit section demand commitment at all levels. Fitness doesn't always secure you against the dangers of the weather or exposure.
Best Season for Ama Dablam Expedition
There are two real climbing windows for the Ama Dablam expedition. The principal and most popular season is autumn, and the secondary best season is spring. Both are AltiPro Adventures full-service operations.
Autumn (October–November): The golden season for the Ama Dablam expedition. After the monsoon, the Southwest Ridge will see settled snow, clear skies and great visibility. October and November offer the best summit windows. Bookings are on a first come, first served basis.
Spring (April–May): Pre-monsoon spring offers milder temperatures and stable conditions in the second half of April and first half of May. Slightly more variable than autumn but a fully viable expedition window operated by AltiPro under the same full-service structure.
Ama Dablam Expedition Cost
Premium full-board package — all permits, 1:1 Sherpas, 5 oxygen cylinders, and Expedition Doctor included.
Expedition packages tailored to your requirements. Our Ama Dablam Expedition 2027 packages are tailor-suited for your team size, level of service, and departure date. The full-board package covers permits, transport, Kathmandu hotel, trek accommodation, Base Camp and high camp infrastructure, 1:1 Climbing Sherpa, and Expedition Doctor. Request a personalised quote from our expedition team.
Ama Dablam Expedition — FAQs
Find answers to common questions about the Ama Dablam expedition.
Do climbers use supplemental oxygen on Ama Dablam?
Climbers do not need supplemental oxygen on Ama Dablam as the peak at 6,812 m / 22,349 ft is below the 8,000 m level. AltiPro has backup oxygen, mask and regulator at Base Camp as an emergency precautionary measure, however. For climbers with special medical requirements, an allocated cylinder can be requested — consult with the expedition team at briefing.
How difficult is the Ama Dablam climb?
The Ama Dablam climb is not recommended for beginners. From the Southwest Ridge, 5th class rock climbing, fixed rope technique and mixed terrain experience is required — skills not acquired in the process of trekking peaks. The overall level of difficulty is 8.2 / 10. Climbers must have experience on a technical 6,000m peak like Mera Peak before applying.
How long does the Ama Dablam Expedition take?
The Ama Dablam expedition itinerary is 32 days long including the trek from Lukla to Namche to the Southwest Ridge (two ridge rotations), the summit push and the descent back to Lukla. Buffer days are added at the end for weather delays or a second summit window.
What is the best season for the Ama Dablam Expedition?
There are two possible windows for the Ama Dablam expedition. The key and most favoured season is autumn (October–November) when there is post-monsoon stability, settled snowpack, and excellent clarity throughout the Khumbu. The next season is spring (April–May) which has milder temperatures. Both are run fully by AltiPro Adventures. Permits are competitive for autumn — make early booking a priority.
What prior experience is required for Ama Dablam?
Applicants should have documented experience on a technical 6,000m+ Himalayan peak with glacier travel and fixed rope use. Rock climbing skills to 5th class, crampons and ice axe skills, and mixed terrain experience are required. Ama Dablam is not a first objective in the high-altitude arena — a robust alpine CV is screened by AltiPro prior to any application being accepted.
What is Ama Dablam's elevation and where is it located?
The elevation of Ama Dablam is 6,812 m / 22,349 ft above sea level. The mountain lies in the Khumbu region of north-eastern Nepal in Sagarmatha National Park — a World Heritage Site. It is located above the village of Dingboche on the main trekking route to Everest, about 7–8 days trek from Lukla.
How cold does it get on Ama Dablam?
Temperatures vary by altitude and season. At Base Camp (4,600 m): -5°C to -15°C. At Camp I–II (5,600–5,900 m): -15°C to -25°C. At Camp III (6,200 m) and on summit day: -25°C to -35°C or lower with wind chill. Proper layering and expedition-grade sleeping equipment are essential at all high camps.
What permits are required to climb Ama Dablam?
Three permits are required: the Ama Dablam Climbing Royalty from Nepal's MoCTCA, the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit (SNPEP), and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit. A Government Liaison Officer is mandatory. AltiPro manages the full permit and documentation process — you arrive in Kathmandu, we handle the rest.
What is the Ama Dablam Expedition cost?
The Ama Dablam expedition package is fully tailored to your team size, departure date, and service level. The full-board package covers permits, transport, Kathmandu hotel, trek accommodation, Base Camp and high camp infrastructure, 1:1 Climbing Sherpa, and Expedition Doctor. Request a quote from our team.
Is Ama Dablam good preparation for 8,000m peaks?
Yes — the Ama Dablam expedition is widely regarded as the benchmark technical objective before committing to Manaslu (8,163 m) or the greater 8,000m peaks. It delivers every element of serious expedition mountaineering — multi-camp logistics, high-altitude fixed ropes, technical mixed climbing, and sustained exposure — without the extremes of Death Zone altitude.
Detailed Itinerary
Click on each day to view details
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| 1 | Arrival in Kathmandu | Dinner | Hotel | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Arrive in Kathmandu (1,350m / 4,429ft). Transfer to hotel, welcome dinner, and expedition briefing.
2
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Permit Processing and Gear Check |
Breakfast / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Complete expedition permit processing, climbing gear inspection, and final briefing in Kathmandu.
3
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Fly Kathmandu → Lukla and Trek to Phakding |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Fly to Lukla (2,840m / 9,317ft) and begin the Khumbu approach trek to Phakding (2,610m / 8,563ft).
4
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Trek Phakding → Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Cross suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River and ascend to Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 11,286ft).
5
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Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Acclimatization hike above Namche Bazaar with panoramic Everest region views before returning to Namche.
6
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Trek Namche Bazaar → Tengboche |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Trek through rhododendron forests to Tengboche Monastery (3,860m / 12,664ft) beneath Ama Dablam.
7
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Trek Tengboche → Dingboche |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Continue through Pangboche village and ascend into the upper Imja Valley toward Dingboche (4,360m / 14,304ft).
8
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Trek Dingboche → Ama Dablam Base Camp |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Leave the Everest trail and ascend to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m / 15,091ft).
9 – 11
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Climbing Training and Rotation Preparation |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Complete fixed rope training, glacier movement practice, and acclimatization hikes around Base Camp before rotations begin.
12 – 15
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First Rotation — Camp I |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Ascend the Southwest Ridge to Camp I (5,600m / 18,373ft) for the first acclimatization rotation before descending to Base Camp.
16 – 18
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Rest and Recovery at Base Camp |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Recovery period at Base Camp with medical monitoring, weather planning, and preparation for the second rotation.
19 – 22
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Second Rotation — Camp II |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Climb through the exposed rock traverses and mixed terrain to Camp II (5,900m / 19,357ft) before descending to Base Camp.
23 – 25
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Summit Push Preparation |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Rest, monitor weather forecasts, and finalize summit logistics at Ama Dablam Base Camp.
26 – 29
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Summit Rotation — Ama Dablam |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Ascend through Camps I, II, and III before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349ft) and descending to Base Camp.
30
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Trek Ama Dablam Base Camp → Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Descend from Base Camp through Pangboche and Tengboche to Namche Bazaar.
31
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Trek Namche Bazaar → Lukla |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Final trekking day descending alongside the Dudh Koshi River back to Lukla.
32
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Fly Lukla → Kathmandu and Departure Preparation |
Breakfast / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Morning flight to Kathmandu followed by expedition debriefing and farewell dinner.
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Services
Includes
- ✅ High-altitude tents at Camps I, II, and III — 2 members per tent
- ✅ High-altitude food at all camps: EPI gas, cooking pots, stoves, and group equipment
- ✅ Fixed and dynamic ropes throughout the Southwest Ridge route
- ✅ 1 veteran, government-licensed Climbing Sherpa per member (1:1 ratio) — Base Camp to summit and back, on every rotation
- ✅ Climbing Sherpa salary, equipment, food, clothing, and insurance
- ✅ Carry bonus of Sherpas and route-fixing charges included
- ✅ Backup oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator on standby at Base Camp
- ✅ Oxygen, mask, and regulator training at Base Camp before climbing begins
- ✅ Helicopter rescue standby pre-arranged from Kathmandu before expedition departure
- ✅ Puja ceremony at Ama Dablam Base Camp before climbing begins
- ✅ Ama Dablam summit certificate on successful summit
Excludes
- ❌ International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu)
- ❌ Nepalese Visa fee — USD 125 for 90 days
- ❌ Clothing, personal trekking and climbing gear, and personal medical kit
- ❌ Soaps, shampoos, toilet paper, and personal hygiene items
- ❌ Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except included welcome and farewell dinners)
- ❌ Extra accommodation in Kathmandu for early arrival or late departure
- ❌ Telephone, internet, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, and alcoholic beverages
- ❌ Travel, medical, and high-altitude helicopter rescue insurance — mandatory for all participants (trip cancellation, interruption, medical treatment, repatriation)
- ❌ Summit bonus for Climbing Sherpa — minimum USD 800
- ❌ Tips for porters — minimum USD 100 each
- ❌ Gratuities for Base Camp and high camp staff — minimum USD 400
- ❌ Special filming, camera, and drone permit fees
- ❌ Costs due to flight cancellations, road disruptions, or unforeseen situations
- ❌ Any other services not listed in the Includes section above
Departure
From
Apr 20, 2026
To
Jun 01, 2026
Gear Lists & Useful Information
Expedition Details
Peak Name
Amadablam Expedition
Duration
28 - 32 Days
Max Elevation
6,812 m
Best Seasons
Autumn
Region
Mahalangur Range
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Expedition Videos
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