Amadablam Expedition
Ama Dablam — the jewel of the Himalayas, steep, stunning, and unforgettable.
Expedition Overview
What is the Ama Dablam Expedition?
The most famous technical peak of Nepal is Ama Dablam (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) which stands above the Khumbu Valley in Sagarmatha National Park. Climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop and Mike Ward up the Southwest Ridge, it is one of the most coveted ama dablam climbing objectives in the world.
Mt ama dablam, which is known to the Nepalis as the Mother's Necklace, is a classic example of the technical alpine skills required: rock, ice and mixed terrain at altitude. In contrast to the trekking peaks in Nepal this is a true mountaineering objective from Camp I onward.
The amadablam expedition permit quota helps to keep the mountain controlled and uncrowded. For alpinists who have already demonstrated their abilities on such peaks as Mera Peak (6,476 m / 21,247 ft) and are prepared for a real technical challenge before confronting Manaslu (8,163 m / 26,781 ft) or the 8,000m peaks, it is natural that they will want to go to Baruntse (6,870 m / 22,867 ft) first.
Why Climb Ama Dablam?
The Matterhorn of the Himalayas
Ama Dablam with her sharp profile is the most photographed mountain in the Khumbu and one of the most visually striking technical summits in Nepal.
Genuine Technical Climbing
Rock traverses, mixed terrain and fixed rope climbing above 6,000m require true alpine skills from Camp I upward.
Unmatched Summit Panorama
The summit offers panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu across the Himalayan range.
The Dablam Hanging Glacier
The iconic hanging glacier shapes the route strategy and creates one of the defining alpine hazards of the expedition.
Classic Khumbu Approach
The approach trek passes through Namche Bazaar and Tengboche Monastery along the classic Everest trekking corridor.
The Alpine Benchmark
A successful Ama Dablam ascent is regarded as the bridge between trekking peaks and serious 8,000m mountaineering.
Ama Dablam Route & Approach
Climbing the ama dablam route is along the Southwest Ridge, which is the route of the 1961 first ascent and the only commercial route on the mountain. The route consists of three high camps being set up and fixed by the Sherpa team of AltiPro on continuously exposed and technical terrain from the Base Camp of Ama Dablam (4600 m / 15091 ft), before your first rotation.
Kathmandu → Lukla → Namche → Base Camp
Fly to Lukla (2840 m) and trek through Namche Bazaar (3440 m), Tengboche (3860 m) and Dingboche (4360 m) to reach Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Base Camp — 4,600m / 15,091ft
AltiPro's Base Camp includes heated dining tents, sleeping tents, kitchen staff and expedition medical support below the Southwest Ridge.
Camp I — 5,600m / 18,373ft
The route narrows onto granite ledges and fixed ropes begin above Camp I on exposed terrain.
Camp II — 5,900m / 19,357ft
Technical traverses and harder rock pitches form the crux climbing section before Camp II.
Camp III — 6,200m / 20,341ft
The Grey Tower and Mushroom Ridge lead through mixed rock, snow and ice terrain to the final summit camp.
Summit — 6,812m / 22,349ft
Steep snow and ice slopes lead to the summit of Ama Dablam with extensive views across the Khumbu massif.
Acclimatization Rotations
The Ama Dablam expedition uses structured acclimatization rotations on the Southwest Ridge before the summit push. These rotations help climbers adapt to altitude and technical exposure progressively.
Base Camp → Camp I → Base Camp
4,600m → 5,600m / 15,091ft → 18,373ft
First fixed rope sections are assessed during the initial overnight rotation to Camp I.
Camp I → Camp II → Base Camp
5,600m → 5,900m / 18,373ft → 19,357ft
The second rotation crosses the technical rock traverse sections before descending for recovery.
Camp I → Camp II → Camp III → Summit
5,600m → 6,812m / 18,373ft → 22,349ft
The summit push passes the Grey Tower and Mushroom Ridge before the final summit pyramid.
How Difficult is the Ama Dablam Climb?
Ama Dablam is not recommended for climbers without technical experience on rock and mixed terrain. Extensive experience on technical 6,000m peaks and strong alpine movement skills are required.
The Grey Tower, Mushroom Ridge and steep summit section require commitment, efficient rope systems and solid mixed terrain movement at altitude.
Best Season for Ama Dablam Expedition
There are two real climbing windows along the ama dablam expedition. The principal and most popular season is autumn, and the secondary best season is spring.
Autumn (October–November): Post-monsoon conditions provide settled snow, stable weather and the best summit windows on the Southwest Ridge.
Spring (April–May): Pre-monsoon spring offers milder temperatures and stable climbing conditions during late April and early May.
Ama Dablam Expedition Cost
Expedition packages tailored to your requirements.
Our Ama Dablam Expedition 2027 packages are tailor-suited for your team size, level of service, and departure date. Prices are dependent on group size and inclusions. Request a full quote from our expedition team.
Detailed Itinerary
Click on each day to view details
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| 1 | Arrival in Kathmandu | Dinner | Hotel | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Arrive in Kathmandu (1,350m / 4,429ft). Transfer to hotel, welcome dinner, and expedition briefing.
2
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Permit Processing and Gear Check |
Breakfast / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Complete expedition permit processing, climbing gear inspection, and final briefing in Kathmandu.
3
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Fly Kathmandu → Lukla and Trek to Phakding |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Fly to Lukla (2,840m / 9,317ft) and begin the Khumbu approach trek to Phakding (2,610m / 8,563ft).
4
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Trek Phakding → Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Cross suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River and ascend to Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 11,286ft).
5
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Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Acclimatization hike above Namche Bazaar with panoramic Everest region views before returning to Namche.
6
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Trek Namche Bazaar → Tengboche |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Trek through rhododendron forests to Tengboche Monastery (3,860m / 12,664ft) beneath Ama Dablam.
7
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Trek Tengboche → Dingboche |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Continue through Pangboche village and ascend into the upper Imja Valley toward Dingboche (4,360m / 14,304ft).
8
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Trek Dingboche → Ama Dablam Base Camp |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Leave the Everest trail and ascend to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m / 15,091ft).
9 – 11
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Climbing Training and Rotation Preparation |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Complete fixed rope training, glacier movement practice, and acclimatization hikes around Base Camp before rotations begin.
12 – 15
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First Rotation — Camp I |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Ascend the Southwest Ridge to Camp I (5,600m / 18,373ft) for the first acclimatization rotation before descending to Base Camp.
16 – 18
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Rest and Recovery at Base Camp |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Recovery period at Base Camp with medical monitoring, weather planning, and preparation for the second rotation.
19 – 22
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Second Rotation — Camp II |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Climb through the exposed rock traverses and mixed terrain to Camp II (5,900m / 19,357ft) before descending to Base Camp.
23 – 25
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Summit Push Preparation |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Rest, monitor weather forecasts, and finalize summit logistics at Ama Dablam Base Camp.
26 – 29
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Summit Rotation — Ama Dablam |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Tent |
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Ascend through Camps I, II, and III before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349ft) and descending to Base Camp.
30
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Trek Ama Dablam Base Camp → Namche Bazaar |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Descend from Base Camp through Pangboche and Tengboche to Namche Bazaar.
31
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Trek Namche Bazaar → Lukla |
Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner |
Lodge |
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Final trekking day descending alongside the Dudh Koshi River back to Lukla.
32
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Fly Lukla → Kathmandu and Departure Preparation |
Breakfast / Dinner |
Hotel |
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Morning flight to Kathmandu followed by expedition debriefing and farewell dinner.
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Services
Includes
- ✅ High-altitude tents at Camps I, II, and III — 2 members per tent
- ✅ High-altitude food at all camps: EPI gas, cooking pots, stoves, and group equipment
- ✅ Fixed and dynamic ropes throughout the Southwest Ridge route
- ✅ 1 veteran, government-licensed Climbing Sherpa per member (1:1 ratio) — Base Camp to summit and back, on every rotation
- ✅ Climbing Sherpa salary, equipment, food, clothing, and insurance
- ✅ Carry bonus of Sherpas and route-fixing charges included
- ✅ Backup oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator on standby at Base Camp
- ✅ Oxygen, mask, and regulator training at Base Camp before climbing begins
- ✅ Helicopter rescue standby pre-arranged from Kathmandu before expedition departure
- ✅ Puja ceremony at Ama Dablam Base Camp before climbing begins
- ✅ Ama Dablam summit certificate on successful summit
Excludes
- ❌ International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu)
- ❌ Nepalese Visa fee — USD 125 for 90 days
- ❌ Clothing, personal trekking and climbing gear, and personal medical kit
- ❌ Soaps, shampoos, toilet paper, and personal hygiene items
- ❌ Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except included welcome and farewell dinners)
- ❌ Extra accommodation in Kathmandu for early arrival or late departure
- ❌ Telephone, internet, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, and alcoholic beverages
- ❌ Travel, medical, and high-altitude helicopter rescue insurance — mandatory for all participants (trip cancellation, interruption, medical treatment, repatriation)
- ❌ Summit bonus for Climbing Sherpa — minimum USD 800
- ❌ Tips for porters — minimum USD 100 each
- ❌ Gratuities for Base Camp and high camp staff — minimum USD 400
- ❌ Special filming, camera, and drone permit fees
- ❌ Costs due to flight cancellations, road disruptions, or unforeseen situations
- ❌ Any other services not listed in the Includes section above
Departure
From
Apr 20, 2026
To
Jun 01, 2026
Gear Lists & Useful Information
Expedition Details
Peak Name
Amadablam Expedition
Duration
28 - 32 Days
Max Elevation
6,812 m
Best Seasons
Autumn
Region
Mahalangur Range
Expedition Gallery
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Expedition Videos
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