Lhotse Expedition

Imagine breathing the fresh air at 8,516 meters (27,940 ft), right next to Everest, and test your limits to reach the highest points on earth. That is Lhotse – an exciting experience for those who seek solitude and become inspired explorers at every step and every success.

Lhotse, or "South Peak" in Tibetan, has been the mountain serious climbers have quietly put on their list for years.It doesn’t crave the spotlight. The south face is the steepest and tallest on the planet. The summit towers over almost everything except three other peaks. Yet only a handful of adventure enthusiasts reach the top each year—not because of the climb, but because of the climb that requires true adventure enthusiasts who possess the skills and the respect for the mountain’s true altitude.

If you are an adventurous person who needs something out of the ordinary, then Lhotse is the mountain for you. The fourth tallest mountain on the face of the earth is not just a climb; it is the answer to the question you have been asking yourself for years.

Ready to rise and shine? Let's make it happen together.

Overview of Lhotse Expedition 2027

Lhotse is at 8,516 meters (27,940 ft) on the border of Nepal and China in the Khumbu region, and forms the southern boundary of the Everest massif, connected via the ridge of the South Col, rising above 8,000 meters (29,247 ft). First ascent was on May 18, 1956, by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. The normal route traverses the South Col ridge via the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm, then separates off up the steep face to the 60-degree Reiss Couloir. The South Face has had only one ascent, and the Northwest Face is the standard route for the high altitude climber.

AltiPro Adventures’ 50-day full-board expedition begins in Kathmandu, takes the standard route on Everest with groups of up to 12, includes 1:1 Sherpa support, three acclimatization rotations, five oxygen cylinders for each climber, and makes the summit bid after a safe 48-hour weather window and full medical clearance. Suitable for those with solid experience from previous ascents of 8,000-meter (26,247 ft) peaks or good background from previous ascents of 7,000-meter + peaks, aiming for the fourth highest mountain in the world. Developing strength, team spirit, and the ultimate high of climbing the highest mountain in the world.

Why Choose AltiPro Adventures for Lhotse 2027?

The 2027 Lhotse Spring Climbing Season

The 2027 Spring season is set up for success with early establishment of Base Camp and pre-positioned Sherpa teams rope-fixing the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face. This allows us to take full advantage of the favorable weather windows that follow the passage of the jet stream to the north.

Sharper Weather Planning

Climbers gain a significant advantage with summit forecasts, updated every six hours, provided by a dedicated high-altitude weather service. Our strategy is based on data, not hope; we require a stable weather window of at least 48 hours for the upper face and Reiss Couloir before we begin our summit push from Camp IV.

Advanced Oxygen Support

Each climber is provided with five 4-litre oxygen bottles, a summit mask, and regulator. Additional oxygen bottles are already in place at the high camps for the final ascent. The oxygen supply begins at Camp IV (7,950m or 26,083 ft), going through the summit and down for safety.

Smaller, More Focused Climbing Teams

Despite the shared Base Camp environment with the broader Khumbu spring season, AltiPro limits the Lhotse Expedition 2027 to a maximum of 12 climbers. Every climber is accompanied by their very own 1:1 Climbing Sherpa from Base Camp to the summit, an essential requirement for the small windows on the Lhotse Face.

Safety-Forward Climbing Structure

Our Expedition Doctor is stationed at Base Camp for the entire climbing season, checking oxygen supplies daily. The Gamow Bag is also in place for altitude sickness emergencies, and crossing the Khumbu Icefall before dawn is mandatory for safety. All risks are assessed and managed before the first step on the mountain.

Northwest Face Route — Lhotse via the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face

The standard commercial route on Lhotse is the Northwest Face, connected to the route on Everest via the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm, before separating at the top of Camp III. The route begins at Base Camp at an altitude of 5,364 meters  (17,598 ft), where the climber crosses the Khumbu Icefall and reaches Camp I. The Western Cwm is traversed from the Icefall, reaching Camp II, or Advanced Base Camp. The route from Camp II to Camp III and Camp IV traverses the Lhotse Face, a wall of blue ice that reaches an altitude of 1,125 meters (3,691 ft) and an angle of 40-50 degrees, interspersed with sections of 80 degrees. Above Camp IV, the route traverses the top of the mountain, passing through the Yellow Band, the Geneva Spur, and into the Reiss Couloir, the icy gully at an angle of 60 degrees that leads the climber to the top.

Khumbu Icefall — Base Camp to Camp I (5,364m or 17,598 ft – 6,100m or 20,013 ft)

The Icefall is the most treacherous part of the climb, encountered immediately after Base Camp. The Icefall is 600 meters of moving ice that shifts daily, characterized by numerous crevasses, towering seracs, and ice blocks that are connected by the Icefall Doctors using ladders and ropes. The Icefall is constantly changing and is actively managed throughout the climbing season. The crossing is done at the crack of dawn, before the sun melts the ice. Camp I is located at an altitude of 6,100 meters (20,013 ft) at the top of the Icefall, a bleak but safe stopover between Base Camp and Camp II.

Acclimatization Rotations

1st Rotation: Khumbu Icefall – Camp I (6,100m or 20,013 ft) overnight – Return to Base Camp. Initial crossing of the icefall to confirm ladder and fixed-rope techniques.

2nd Rotation: Camp I – Camp II (6,400m or 20,997 ft) overnight – Return to Base Camp. First traverse of the Western Cwm to establish the body’s acclimatization response above 6,000m (19,685 ft).

3rd Rotation: Camp II – Camp III (7,100m or 23,294 ft) overnight – Return to Base Camp. Technical climb up the Lhotse Face. The Expedition Doctor reviews O2 saturation for summit clearance after this rotation.

Camp Breakdown

Camp I – Top of Khumbu Icefall (6,100m or 20,013 ft): First overnight stop. Transitional rest camp situated on barren ledge with expansive views of Khumbu Glacier.

Camp II – Advanced Base Camp (6,400m or 20,997 ft): The operational center of the upper mountain. Has a fully equipped kitchen and dining tent; it is your main home away from home.

Camp III – Lhotse Face (7,100m or 23,293 ft): Hard-won ledge cut into the ice at the foot of the Yellow Band. The beginning of the high-altitude approach.

Camp IV – Upper Lhotse Face (7,950m or 26,083 ft): The last high camp above the Geneva Spur. Oxygen usage starts here in preparation for the midnight departure.

Final Summit Attempt – Camp IV to 8,516m (27,940 ft): Departure from Camp IV between midnight and 2 AM. The route goes from the camp across the mountain face to the base of the Reiss Couloir, the 60-degree icy gulley that the Swiss mountaineer Ernst Reiss first ascended in 1956. The Couloir becomes 80 degrees at the top and demands careful and precise technique on fixed ropes at high altitude. On the summit ridge, the highest mountain in the world is directly overhead to the north. The round trip from Camp IV to the summit and back down to Camp II takes about 14-16 hours.

Explore Other 8000m Himalayan Expeditions

Climbers attempting to climb the legendary Mount Everest often try other 8000-meter peaks in the Himalayas. Altipro Adventures also offers expeditions to some of the toughest climbs in the world.

• K2 Expedition (8,611m) – Attempt the second-highest mountain in the world in Pakistan’s Karakoram Range, which is considered one of the most technical and toughest 8000m climbs.
• Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m) – Climb the third-highest mountain in the world on a remote and adventurous expedition in eastern Nepal.
• Everest Expedition (8,848.86m) – The Roof of the World, Highest Mountain on Earth.
• Makalu Expedition (8,485m) – A tough climb up a pyramid-shaped mountain that offers one of the most beautiful 8000m climbs in the world.
• Manaslu Expedition (8,163m) – A famous 8000m climb that is known for its breathtaking beauty and is a great climb for beginners.