Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse — Everest’s towering neighbor and a Himalayan giant of challenge and beauty.

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Expedition Overview

What is the Lhotse Expedition?

Lhotse (8,516 m / 27,940 ft) is the fourth-highest mountain on Earth, rising on the border of Nepal and China in the Khumbu region. Its name means "South Peak" in Tibetan, and it forms the southern boundary of the Everest massif, connected to Everest via the South Col ridge above 8,000 metres. The South Face of Lhotse is the steepest and tallest rock face on the planet — it has been summited only once — while the Northwest Face via the Lhotse Face is the standard commercial route. The first ascent was made on 18 May 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger of a Swiss expedition.

The standard route shares the approach with Everest through the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm before branching off up the steep Lhotse Face — 1,125 metres of blue ice at 40–50 degrees with sections reaching 80 degrees — through the Yellow Band, the Geneva Spur, and into the Reiss Couloir, the 60-degree icy gully that leads to the summit. Lhotse is not a mountain for first-time 8,000-metre climbers; it demands proficiency in fixed-rope management, ladder crossings, and crampon technique on steep ice at extreme altitude.

The Lhotse Expedition 2027 by AltiPro Adventures is a 50-day full-board Spring expedition departing Kathmandu on 10 April 2027. The team treks from Lukla to Base Camp (5,364 m) over eight days before beginning three structured acclimatization rotations. A maximum of 12 climbers is accepted, with a guaranteed 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio, five oxygen cylinders per climber, and an Expedition Doctor stationed at Base Camp throughout the season.

8,516 m / 27,940 ft Northwest Face via Lhotse Face Extreme / Technical Mahalangur Himal / Khumbu 50 Days Max 12 Climbers 1:1 Sherpa Ratio Spring 2027
 
Why this mountain

Why Climb Lhotse?

The 2027 Lhotse Spring Climbing Season

The 2027 Spring season is set up for success with early establishment of Base Camp and pre-positioned Sherpa teams rope-fixing the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face. This allows us to take full advantage of the favorable weather windows that follow the passage of the jet stream to the north.

Sharper Weather Planning

Climbers gain a significant advantage with summit forecasts updated every six hours, provided by a dedicated high-altitude weather service. Our strategy requires a stable weather window of at least 48 hours for the upper face and Reiss Couloir before we begin the summit push from Camp IV.

Advanced Oxygen Support

Each climber is provided with five 4-litre oxygen bottles, a summit mask, and regulator. Additional oxygen bottles are pre-positioned at the high camps for the final ascent. Oxygen supply begins at Camp IV (7,950m) and continues through the summit and descent.

Smaller, More Focused Climbing Teams

Despite the shared Base Camp environment of the Khumbu spring season, AltiPro limits the Lhotse Expedition 2027 to a maximum of 12 climbers. Every climber is accompanied by their own 1:1 Climbing Sherpa from Base Camp to the summit — essential for the small windows on the Lhotse Face.

Safety-Forward Climbing Structure

Our Expedition Doctor is stationed at Base Camp for the entire climbing season, checking oxygen supplies daily. The Gamow Bag is in place for altitude sickness emergencies, and crossing the Khumbu Icefall before dawn is mandatory for safety. All risks are assessed and managed before the first step on the mountain.

The Fourth Highest Summit on Earth

Lhotse stands only three peaks below Everest and shares the same Khumbu approach — yet it receives a fraction of the attention. The summit ridge delivers a direct view of Everest directly overhead to the north, with the full Mahalangur Range spread across the horizon.

 
Route & Approach

Northwest Face Route — via the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face

The standard commercial route on Lhotse follows the Northwest Face, sharing the approach with Everest through the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm before separating at the top of Camp III. The route begins at Base Camp (5,364 m), crosses the Icefall to Camp I, traverses the Western Cwm to Camp II (Advanced Base Camp), then climbs the Lhotse Face — a 1,125-metre wall of blue ice at 40–50 degrees with sections of 80 degrees — through Camps III and IV. Above Camp IV, the route passes through the Yellow Band, the Geneva Spur, and into the Reiss Couloir, the 60-degree icy gully that leads to the summit at 8,516 m.

1

Khumbu Icefall — Base Camp to Camp I (5,364m → 6,100m)

The most objectively dangerous section of the climb, encountered immediately above Base Camp. Six hundred metres of moving ice shifting daily, characterised by crevasses, towering seracs, and ice blocks bridged by the Icefall Doctors using ladders and fixed ropes. Crossings are made at the crack of dawn before solar heating destabilises the ice. Camp I sits at 6,100 m at the top of the Icefall.

2

Camp I — Top of Khumbu Icefall (6,100m)

First overnight stop — a transitional rest camp on a barren ledge with expansive views of the Khumbu Glacier below.

3

Camp II — Advanced Base Camp, Western Cwm (6,400m)

The operational centre of the upper mountain, reached by traversing the Western Cwm from the top of the Icefall. Fully equipped kitchen and dining tent — the main home away from Base Camp.

4

Camp III — Lhotse Face (7,100m)

A hard-won ledge cut into the ice at the foot of the Yellow Band on the Lhotse Face. The beginning of the high-altitude approach above 7,000 m.

5

Camp IV — Upper Lhotse Face (7,950m)

The last high camp, situated above the Geneva Spur. Oxygen usage begins here in preparation for the midnight departure to the summit.

6

Summit Push — Camp IV to Lhotse (8,516m) via the Reiss Couloir

Departure between midnight and 2 AM from Camp IV. The route crosses the upper face to the base of the Reiss Couloir — the 60-degree icy gully first ascended by Ernst Reiss in 1956 — which steepens to 80 degrees at the top and demands precise technique on fixed ropes at extreme altitude. On the summit ridge, Everest is directly overhead to the north. The round trip from Camp IV to summit and back to Camp II takes approximately 14–16 hours.

 
Acclimatization

Acclimatization Rotations

Three structured rotations progressively extend the team's exposure on the Lhotse Face before the summit bid begins. The Expedition Doctor reviews oxygen saturation data after each rotation and issues individual medical clearance before the next phase. The acclimatization trek from Lukla to Base Camp — including rest days at Namche Bazaar and Dingboche — provides the foundation before rotations start.

1st Rotation — up to 6,100m

Base Camp → Camp I → Base Camp

5,364m → 6,100m / 17,598ft → 20,013ft

Initial crossing of the Khumbu Icefall to confirm ladder and fixed-rope techniques. Overnight at Camp I before returning to Base Camp.

2nd Rotation — up to 6,400m

Camp I → Camp II → Base Camp

6,100m → 6,400m / 20,013ft → 20,997ft

First traverse of the Western Cwm to establish the body's acclimatization response above 6,000 m. Overnight at Camp II (Advanced Base Camp) before returning to Base Camp.

3rd Rotation — up to 7,100m

Camp II → Camp III → Base Camp

6,400m → 7,100m / 20,997ft → 23,294ft

Technical climb up the Lhotse Face to Camp III. Overnight at the foot of the Yellow Band. Expedition Doctor reviews O₂ saturation for summit clearance after this rotation.

 
Difficulty

How Difficult is the Lhotse Expedition?

Lhotse is graded Extreme / Technical and is not recommended as a first 8,000-metre peak. The Khumbu Icefall presents the most objectively dangerous section, while the Lhotse Face — 1,125 metres of steep blue ice at 40–80 degrees — and the Reiss Couloir at extreme altitude demand a high level of technical proficiency. AltiPro requires documented climbing experience above 7,000 metres, including proficiency in fixed-rope management, ladder crossings, and crampon technique on 40–60 degree ice.

Overall difficulty
 
9 / 10
Technical climbing
 
9 / 10
Physical demand
 
8.8 / 10
Altitude challenge
 
9 / 10
Remoteness
 
6 / 10

Lhotse is best suited for experienced climbers who are technically proficient and have prior experience on high-altitude mountains with icefall and fixed-rope management. The major objective risks include the Khumbu Icefall, avalanches on the Lhotse Face, extreme cold, and technical fall hazards in the Reiss Couloir at extreme altitude.

 
Best season

Best Season for the Lhotse Expedition

The Spring season (April–May) is the primary and recommended window for the Lhotse Expedition. The summit push is targeted for the second half of May, when the jet stream has moved north and the most stable 48-hour weather windows typically appear on the upper Lhotse Face and Reiss Couloir.

Jan
Feb
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Ideal season Possible Not recommended

Spring (April–May): The prime window. April covers the approach, Base Camp establishment, and early acclimatization rotations. May provides the best summit windows as the jet stream shifts north over the Mahalangur Range. The AltiPro 2027 expedition is timed specifically for this season.

 
Cost & packages

Lhotse Expedition Cost

Premium full-board package — all permits, 1:1 Sherpas, 5 oxygen cylinders, and Expedition Doctor included.

The AltiPro Lhotse Expedition 2027 covers 4-star Kathmandu accommodation, all transport, the complete permit package (Climbing Royalty, Sagarmatha National Park, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu, Icefall route fee), a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio, five oxygen cylinders per climber, an on-site Expedition Doctor, and full high-camp infrastructure. International flights, personal gear, and summit bonuses are not included. Request a full quote from our expedition team.

Detailed Itinerary

Click on each day to view details

Day Program Meals Accom.
1 Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m) Breakfast Hotel
2 – 3 Kathmandu — Briefing, Permits & Gear Check Breakfast Hotel
4 Fly Kathmandu → Lukla, Trek to Phakding (2,610m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
5 Trek Phakding → Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
6 Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
7 Trek Namche Bazaar → Tengboche (3,860m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
8 Trek Tengboche → Dingboche (4,360m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
9 Acclimatization Day at Dingboche (4,360m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
10 Trek Dingboche → Lobuche (4,940m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
11 Trek Lobuche → Gorakshep → Lhotse/Everest Base Camp (5,364m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
12 Puja Ceremony & Icefall Safety Training Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
13 Rest & Acclimatization at Base Camp (5,364m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
14 – 16 1st Rotation — Base Camp through Khumbu Icefall to Camp I (6,100m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
17 – 18 Rest & Recovery at Base Camp Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
19 – 21 2nd Rotation — Camp I to Camp II / Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
22 – 24 Rest Days at Base Camp — Weather Monitoring Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
25 – 27 3rd Rotation — Camp II to Camp III on the Lhotse Face (7,100m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
28 – 30 Full Rest at Base Camp — Final Preparations Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
31 Summit Bid — Base Camp through Khumbu Icefall to Camp I (6,100m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
32 Summit Bid — Camp I through Western Cwm to Camp II / ABC (6,400m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
33 Summit Bid — Camp II up Lhotse Face to Camp III (7,100m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
34 Summit Bid — Camp III to Camp IV (7,950m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
35 Summit Day — Lhotse (8,516m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
36 Descend to Base Camp — Summit Celebration Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
37 Rest & Recovery at Base Camp Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
38 Base Camp Cleanup & Departure Preparation Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Tent
39 Trek Base Camp → Gorakshep → Lobuche (4,940m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
40 Trek Lobuche → Dingboche (4,360m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
41 Trek Dingboche → Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
42 Trek Namche Bazaar → Lukla (2,840m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Lodge
43 Fly Lukla → Kathmandu (1,350m) Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Hotel
44 Celebration Day in Kathmandu Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Hotel
45 – 50 Buffer Days — Weather & Logistics Reserve Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner Hotel
51 Final Departure from Kathmandu Breakfast

Services

Includes

  • ✅ Airport pick-up and drop for all international and domestic flights
  • ✅ 4 nights 4-star hotel in Kathmandu (BB) — 2 nights pre-expedition, 2 nights post-expedition
  • ✅ Welcome dinner and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • ✅ Domestic flights: Kathmandu ↔ Lukla (round trip) for all team members and expedition staff
  • ✅ All expedition staff transport: Kathmandu – Lhotse Base Camp – Kathmandu
  • ✅ Yaks and porters: Lukla to Lhotse/Everest Base Camp and back — all expedition equipment
  • ✅ Full board accommodation at all teahouses and lodges during the trek to and from Base Camp
  • ✅ Personal climbing equipment transfer: Kathmandu – Lhotse Base Camp – Kathmandu (60 kg per member)
  • ✅ Lhotse expedition royalty fee and all official Nepal government documentation
  • ✅ Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • ✅ Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit
  • ✅ Khumbu Icefall route fee and summit route fixing charge
  • ✅ Garbage management and environmental deposit fee
  • ✅ One official Nepal Government Liaison Officer for the full expedition duration
  • ✅ Nepal government taxes and company service charges
  • ✅ Full expedition planning, coordination, and on-ground management
  • ✅ Experienced Base Camp Manager on-site for the full season
  • ✅ Pre-expedition briefing pack in Kathmandu
  • ✅ One walkie-talkie per Climbing Sherpa and Expedition Leader during all climbing phases
  • ✅ Daily professional weather forecast service — 6-hourly Lhotse summit-specific updates throughout
  • ✅ Satellite phone at Base Camp for emergency use (minimal per-call charge applies)
  • ✅ Three freshly cooked meals per day (BLD) at Lhotse Base Camp with hot drinks — tea and coffee
  • ✅ Fresh vegetables, meat, fruits, and juice restocked throughout the season
  • ✅ Heated dining tent with tables and chairs at Base Camp
  • ✅ AltiPro Café at Base Camp — coffee and bakery items served daily
  • ✅ Private sleeping tent with mattress and pillow for every climber and staff member
  • ✅ Generator for charging electronic devices at Base Camp
  • ✅ Internet service at Base Camp (minimal charge)
  • ✅ Sleeping tents at all high camps — Camps I, II, III, IV (2 members per tent)
  • ✅ High-altitude food at all camps: muesli, porridge, noodles, rice, soups, dry fruits, chocolate and snacks
  • ✅ MSR stoves, cooking sets, EPI gas, shovels, and extra ropes at all high camps
  • ✅ Common climbing equipment: fixed ropes, ice screws, aluminium ladder bridges, ice bars, and anchoring hardware
  • ✅ Icefall Doctor fees and Khumbu Icefall rope-fixing team costs — fully included
  • ✅ One dedicated Climbing Sherpa per climber — 1:1 ratio, guaranteed throughout
  • ✅ All Climbing Sherpa, cook, kitchen helper, and Liaison Officer wages and allowances
  • ✅ Insurance for all Climbing Sherpas, cooks, Liaison Officer, and local porters
  • ✅ Backup Sherpas on standby for substitution if required (extra charge if deployed)
  • ✅ 5 oxygen cylinders (4-litre) per climber
  • ✅ 2 oxygen cylinders (4-litre) per Climbing Sherpa
  • ✅ Summit mask and regulator set for every climber and Climbing Sherpa
  • ✅ Emergency oxygen at Base Camp and all high camps (extra charge if usage exceeds allocation)
  • ✅ Gamow Bag (portable hyperbaric chamber) on standby at Base Camp
  • ✅ Expedition Doctor stationed at Base Camp for the full climbing season
  • ✅ Helicopter and rescue team on standby for the full expedition duration
  • ✅ Puja ceremony at Base Camp before climbing begins
  • ✅ AltiPro expedition T-shirt and Lhotse summit certificate

Excludes

  • ❌ International flight tickets to and from your home country
  • ❌ Nepal entry visa fee — obtainable on arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport
  • ❌ Personal climbing gear, clothing, and footwear
  • ❌ Personal satellite messenger device (Garmin inReach or similar)
  • ❌ Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except the included welcome and farewell dinners)
  • ❌ Personal expenses: drinks, laundry, telephone, and Wi-Fi at lodges
  • ❌ Travel, medical, and high-altitude helicopter rescue insurance (Min. USD 100,000) — mandatory for all participants
  • ❌ Summit bonus: USD 2,000 per Climbing Sherpa and USD 500 for kitchen helpers — to be paid in cash at Base Camp after a successful ascent
  • ❌ Tips for trek guides, yak herders, and porters
  • ❌ Extra costs due to personal baggage exceeding 60 kg
  • ❌ Drone and special filming permit fees
  • ❌ Costs incurred due to flight delays, cancellations, or political disruptions

Departure

Departure

From

Apr 13, 2026

To

Jun 09, 2026

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Expedition Details

Peak Name

Lhotse Expedition

Duration

49-52 Days

Max Elevation

8,516 m / 27,939.63 ft

Best Seasons

Spring

Region

Mahalangur Range

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Route Map

Lhotse Expedition Route Map
Map view of Lhotse Expedition

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about this expedition

Yes, Sherpas are provided with the package and the ratio is 1:1. However, additional Sherpas can be provided based on the request.

 

The Lhotse Expedition is an extremely demanding undertaking. It requires high physical fitness, mental strength, and advanced technical skills for the Lhotse Face and Reiss Couloir. While the Khumbu Icefall is the most objectively dangerous section, the extreme altitude and steep ice slopes make the climb difficult. AltiPro ensures a safe experience through expert Sherpa assistance and structured acclimatization.

 

 The Lhotse Expedition takes around 50 days in total, starting from the arrival in Kathmandu and ending with the return.

 

 Lhotse is generally not recommended as a first 8000m peak. It is best suited for experienced climbers who are technically proficient and have prior experience on high-altitude mountains with icefall and fixed-rope management.

 

 Yes, we require documented climbing experience above 7,000 meters. Proficiency in fixed-rope management, ladder crossings, and crampon technique on 40–60 degree ice is essential.

 

The major risks include objective hazards in the Khumbu Icefall, avalanches on the Lhotse Face, altitude sickness, extreme cold, and technical fall hazards in the Reiss Couloir at extreme altitude.

 

The best time is the spring season, during April and May. We target the summit push for the second half of May, when the jet stream has moved north and the most stable 48-hour weather windows typically appear.

 

Here are the main permit fees and required government permits if you want to climb Lhotse from Nepal:

  1. Climbing Permit for Lhotse This is the official permit issued by the Nepal Government (MoCTCA) to attempt the summit of Lhotse. Permit fee for foreign climbers:
  • Spring Season (March to May): ~$1,800 USD/person
  • Autumn Season (Sept to Nov): ~$900 USD/person
  • Winter/Monsoon Season: ~$450 USD/person Please note: The permit fee is only a license or royalty to climb Lhotse. You must pay extra costs for the full expedition.

 

  1. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit This permit is required for all climbers and trekkers entering the protected Khumbu region.
  • For Foreigners: NPR 3,000 (~$30 USD)

 

  1. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit This is a mandatory local government permit for operations within the Khumbu region.
  • Cost: NPR 2,000 (~$20 USD)

 

  1. Khumbu Icefall Route Fee A fixed fee payable to the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOAN) for the maintenance and management of the route through the Khumbu Icefall by the "Icefall Doctors."

 

 Safety is our top priority. We ensure internationally recognized standards are implemented to minimize risks:

  • Experienced Leadership & Sherpa Support: Led by veteran leaders with a guaranteed 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio for every member.
  • Pre-Dawn Icefall Protocol: Crossings are scheduled for 3:00–4:00 AM when temperatures are lowest and ice is most stable.
  • Careful Acclimatization Schedule: A non-compressible three-rotation program to allow gradual adaptation to high altitude.
  • Health Monitoring & Medical Support: An on-site Expedition Doctor stationed at Base Camp with daily oxygen saturation checks.
  • Fixed Ropes & Route Preparation: Our team pre-installs ropes on the Lhotse Face and Reiss Couloir before the first rotation.
  • Supplemental Oxygen & Backup Systems: 5 oxygen cylinders per climber with backups pre-positioned at high camps.
  • Weather Monitoring & Summit Timing: Summit-specific forecasts updated every six hours to identify the safest 48-hour windows.
  • Emergency & Evacuation Planning: Pre-arranged helicopter rescue coordination and an on-site Gamow Bag at Base Camp.

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