Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri — the white giant of the Himalayas, majestic and formidable.

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Expedition Overview

Imagine breathing the thin and cold air at 8,167 meters (26,795 ft) high in northwestern Nepal, looking up at the broad expanse of the Himalayas above you and down into the deepest chasm below. This is Dhaulagiri, the Shining White Mountain, one of the tallest and coldest peaks in the world.

The word Dhaulagiri means "Shining White Mountain" in Sanskrit. The seventh highest mountain in the world, it was only after six expeditions over the course of ten years that Dhaulagiri had a summit visitor. It is tough and requires much from you, not just physically but psychologically too. This is why those climbers who have already scaled an 8,000 meter (26,247 ft) mountain include Dhaulagiri in their plans; there are summits that you earn, there are those that you deserve. And Dhaulagiri is one of them.

Ready to take on the Mountain of Storms? Let's make it happen together.

Overview of Dhaulagiri Expedition 2027

 
Peak Name Dhaulagiri I — The Shining White Mountain Service Full Board Service
Country Nepal Duration 50 Days
Route Northeast Ridge (Normal Route) Grade D — Difficult / Technical
Range Dhaulagiri Himal, Myagdi District Best Season Spring (Apr–May)
Max Elevation 8,167 m / 26,795 ft Walking / Day 5–7 Hours
Accommodation Hotel / Teahouse / Tent Group Size 2–10 Pax
Arrival 10 April 2027 Fixed Departure 12 April 2027
Trip Ends 29 May 2027    

Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 m (26,795 ft). It is situated in the Myagdi District of northwest Nepal and is part of the Dhaulagiri Himal range. It was first climbed in 1960 on 13th May when Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorje, and Nawang Dorje made their way to the summit through the Northeast Ridge. The Northeast Ridge was the first route to reach the summit and the one still taken on all Dhaulagiri 8000m guided climbs today. This expedition also became the first Himalayan flight using a fixed winged airplane.

The Dhaulagiri Expedition 2027 with AltiPro Adventures is a 50-day full board spring expedition. It takes a 5-day approach trek through Kali Gandaki Valley from Pokhara and returns via the Hidden Valley, Dhampus Pass to Jomsom. There is room for up to 10 climbers on each team. The Dhaulagiri 8000m (26,247 ft) expedition guarantees a ratio of 1:1 Climbing Sherpa, 3 acclimatizations, 5 summit oxygen cylinders per climber, and a season-long Expedition Doctor at Dhaulagiri Base Camp. This expedition is only open to those who have experience climbing at 8,000m (26,247 ft).

Why Choose AltiPro Adventures for the Dhaulagiri Expedition 2027?

Spring 2027 — The Prime Season for Dhaulagiri

The spring months offer favorable conditions for an ascent. By this time, winter passes, and there will be enough snow on the Northeast Ridge for cramponing. The location becomes accessible in May due to the shift of the jet stream towards the north. Our advanced group of Sherpas organizes all four high camps and establishes fixed ropes along the ridge prior to the first rotation.

Sharper Weather Planning

Using the weather forecast service, which issues hourly updates regarding weather in the vicinity of the summit, climbers get an additional tool. The AltiPro team monitors the weather in the area and proceeds only during a certain period of favorable weather that lasts for 48 hours.

Advanced Oxygen Support

The “Death Zone” presents a real threat to mountaineers. For this reason, AltiPro offers its clients five 4-liter oxygen cylinders, a specially designed summit mask, and a regulator. Extra oxygen cylinders are stored at all the high camps. The use of oxygen starts from the third camp at 7,400 m (24,278 ft), and it continues to the end of the descent.

Smaller, More Focused Climbing Teams

We limit the number of participants for the Dhaulagiri Expedition to ten. Every client receives the support of one Climbing Sherpa from our expert team, who is responsible for his ascent and descent from the moment he leaves the base camp till the moment of arriving back.

Safety-Forward Climbing Structure

A doctor remains at the base camp throughout the season. Daily oxygen saturation control is included in the strategy. Moreover, we are equipped with a hyperbaric chamber bag for emergency situations. All transfers between the camps are scheduled to happen pre-dawn. For more details, see our FAQs and Gear Lists.

Northeast Ridge Route — Dhaulagiri via the Northeast Col

The Northeast Ridge Route is the regular route for reaching the summit of Dhaulagiri — the exact one that was followed by the team during the first ascent in 1960. It is a highly technical expedition that involves a number of climbs to four high camps and appeals to experienced climbers because of the unique location of this majestic peak.

Kali Gandaki — Approach Trek

This trek takes place along the valley of Kali Gandaki River, starting from the village of Beni and recognized as the deepest gorge in the world. It lasts for five days and is used to adapt the team to the changing altitude in an organic way. Along this route, there are hot springs at Tatopani, apple orchards at Marpha, and impressive peaks of about 7,000 m (22,966 ft) on both sides. Explore more treks through the Dhaulagiri trekking region. This trek brings the team to Base Camp in optimal condition.

Navigation of High Glaciers — Route from Base Camp to Camp I (4,750 m / 15,584 ft – 5,850 m / 19,193 ft)

Going higher involves glacier crossing and a steep climb up the Northeast Col on fixed ropes. It is the first technical stage that requires crampon and jumar skills. Traverse maneuvers are performed early in the morning when snow is more secure. Review our gear list to ensure you are fully prepared for this stage.

Acclimatization Rotations

  • 1st Rotation: Base Camp (4,750 m / 15,584 ft) – Camp I (5,850 m / 19,193 ft) overnight – return to Base Camp. Initial glacier and Col crossing to confirm fixed rope techniques.
  • 2nd Rotation: Camp I to Camp II (6,400 m / 20,997 ft) overnight. First overnight stay above 6,000 m (19,685 ft) on the Northeast Ridge. Medical clearance assessment begins after this rotation.
  • 3rd Rotation: Camp II to Camp III (7,400 m / 24,278 ft). First “Death Zone” exposure. The Expedition Doctor conducts individual summit medical clearance following this rotation.

Camp Breakdown

Camp I – Northeast Col (5,850 m / 19,193 ft)

It is your first overnight stay away from Base Camp. This campsite is located at the relatively flat saddle after you have completed the difficult Col ascent. The altitude of this campsite gives you a feel for what it is like up high on the Dhaulagiri massif.

Camp II – Northeast Ridge (6,400 m / 20,997 ft)

It is the central camp for your upper mountain operation. It houses all your high-altitude food caches and cooking utensils. It is your primary resting camp during acclimatization before ascending to Camp III.

Camp III – Upper Northeast Ridge (7,400 m / 24,278 ft)

This camp requires an exhausting physical climb of 4–5 hours on difficult steep slopes. Your arrival at this narrow ridge camp, which is just inside the Death Zone, will require supplemental oxygen.

Camp IV – High Camp (7,800 m / 25,591 ft)

This is the “Death Zone” starting point of your summit bid. Here, you spend several hours to drink, eat, and rest before making your summit attempt. The terrain above is challenging and includes cornice formations.

Summit Attempt (8,167 m / 26,795 ft)

Your summit attempt begins between 10 PM and midnight. You begin by climbing the upper Northeast Ridge in technically demanding segments. Your summit point is at 8,167 m (26,795 ft) where you can view Annapurna I and the deep Kali Gandaki Gorge below. Your descent takes you 10–14 hours down to Base Camp.

After the summit, the return route crosses the French Col at 5,360 m (17,585 ft) into the Hidden Valley. This historic route passes the wreck of the 1960 ‘Yeti’ aircraft before crossing Dhampus Pass at 5,258 m (17,251 ft) to Jomsom. It is one of the most scenically extraordinary exit routes in the Himalayas. Contact us to reserve your place on the Dhaulagiri Expedition 2027.

Detailed Itinerary

Click on each day to view details

Day Program Meals Accom.
1 Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel Breakfast Hotel
2 Kathmandu — Permit Processing & Gear Check B/D Hotel
3 Drive Kathmandu to Pokhara (820 m / 2,690 ft) B/D Hotel
4 Drive Pokhara to Beni; Trek to Tatopani (1,189 m / 3,901 ft) B/L/D Lodge
5 Trek Tatopani to Ghasa (2,012 m / 6,601 ft) B/L/D Lodge
6 Trek Ghasa to Marpha (2,667 m / 8,750 ft) B/L/D Lodge
7 Trek Marpha to Yak Kharka (3,680 m / 12,073 ft) B/L/D Tent / Lodge
8 Trek Yak Kharka to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,750 m / 15,584 ft) B/L/D Tent
9 Puja Ceremony & Route Briefing at Base Camp B/L/D Tent
10 Acclimatization Day at Dhaulagiri Base Camp B/L/D Tent
11 Load Carry & Route Recon to ABC (5,100 m / 16,732 ft) B/L/D Tent
12-14 1st Rotation — Base Camp to Camp I (5,850 m / 19,193 ft) B/L/D Tent
15-16 Rest at Dhaulagiri Base Camp B/L/D Tent
17-19 2nd Rotation — Camp I to Camp II (6,400 m / 20,997 ft) B/L/D Tent
20-22 Full Rest at Base Camp B/L/D Tent
23-25 3rd Rotation — Camp II to Camp III (7,400 m / 24,278 ft) B/L/D Tent
26-28 Full Rest & Summit Window Tracking B/L/D Tent
29 Summit Bid — Base Camp to Camp I (5,850 m / 19,193 ft) B/L/D Tent
30 Summit Bid — Camp I to Camp II (6,400 m / 20,997 ft) B/L/D Tent
31 Summit Bid — Camp II to Camp III (7,400 m / 24,278 ft) B/L/D Tent
32 Summit Bid — Camp III to Camp IV / High Camp (7,800 m / 25,591 ft) B/L/D Tent
33 SUMMIT DAY — Dhaulagiri (8,167 m / 26,795 ft) B/L/D Tent
34 Descend to Dhaulagiri Base Camp B/L/D Tent
35-36 Rest, Recovery & Base Camp Cleanup B/L/D Tent
37 Trek Dhaulagiri BC to French Col Base (5,100 m / 16,732 ft) B/L/D Tent
38 Cross French Col to Hidden Valley (5,080 m / 16,667 ft) B/L/D Tent
39 Cross Dhampus Pass to Yak Kharka (3,680 m / 12,073 ft) B/L/D Tent / Lodge
40 Trek Yak Kharka to Tukuche (2,590 m / 8,497 ft) B/L/D Lodge
41 Trek Tukuche to Jomsom (2,710 m / 8,891 ft) B/L/D Lodge
42 Fly Jomsom to Pokhara (820 m / 2,690 ft) Breakfast Hotel
43 Drive / Fly Pokhara to Kathmandu (1,350 m / 4,429 ft) Breakfast Hotel
44 Farewell Dinner & Summit Certificate Presentation Breakfast / Dinner Hotel
45-50 Buffer Days for Weather & Contingencies Breakfast Hotel
51 Final Departure from Kathmandu Breakfast Hotel

Services

Includes

✅ Dhaulagiri Climbing Royalty / Expedition Permit — issued by MoCTCA, Nepal

✅ Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) — Kali Gandaki Valley approach corridor

✅ TIMS Card — Trekker's Information Management System for the Beni–Jomsom corridor

✅ Garbage management and environmental deposit fee

✅ One official Nepal Government Liaison Officer for the full expedition duration

✅ Nepal government taxes and company service charges

✅ EOAN/AltiPro Sherpa summit route fixing contribution — Northeast Ridge, no extra member charge

✅ Airport pick-up and drop for all international and domestic flights

✅ 4 nights 4-star hotel in Kathmandu (BB) — 2 nights pre-expedition, 2 nights post-expedition

✅ 1 night hotel in Pokhara (both directions — approach and return)

✅ Welcome dinner and farewell dinner in Kathmandu

✅ Road transport: Kathmandu ↔ Pokhara ↔ Beni Bazaar (round trip) for all team members and staff

✅ All expedition staff transport: Kathmandu – Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Kathmandu

✅ Mules and porters: Beni Bazaar to Dhaulagiri Base Camp and back — all expedition equipment

✅ Personal climbing equipment transfer: Kathmandu – Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Kathmandu (60 kg per member)

✅ Full board accommodation at all teahouses during the Kali Gandaki Valley approach and return

✅ Jomsom → Pokhara flight (return — exit via Hidden Valley and Dhampus Pass)

✅ Climbing Sherpa support on French Col (5,360m) and Dhampus Pass (5,258m) exit crossings

 

✅ Full expedition planning, coordination, and on-ground management

✅ Experienced Base Camp Manager and Head Sirdar on-site for the full season

✅ Pre-expedition briefing pack in Kathmandu

✅ One walkie-talkie per Climbing Sherpa and Expedition Leader during all climbing phases

✅ Daily professional weather forecast — 6-hourly Dhaulagiri summit-specific updates throughout

✅ Satellite phone at Base Camp for emergency use (minimal per-call charge applies)

✅ Three freshly cooked meals per day (BLD) at Dhaulagiri Base Camp — continental, Nepali, and international menu

✅ Fresh vegetables, meat, fruits, and juice restocked throughout the season

✅ Heated dining tent with tables and chairs at Dhaulagiri Base Camp

✅ AltiPro Café at Base Camp — coffee and bakery items served daily

✅ Private sleeping tent with mattress and pillow for every climber and staff member

✅ Generator for charging electronic devices at Base Camp

✅ Internet service at Base Camp (minimal charge)

 

✅ Sleeping tents at all high camps — Camps I, II, III, IV (2 members per tent)

✅ High-altitude food at all camps: muesli, porridge, noodles, rice, soups, dry fruits, chocolate, and snacks

✅ MSR stoves, cooking sets, EPI gas, shovels, and extra ropes at all high camps

✅ Common climbing equipment: fixed ropes, ice screws, snow pickets, and anchoring hardware

 

✅ One dedicated Climbing Sherpa per climber — 1:1 ratio, guaranteed from Base Camp to summit and back

✅ All Climbing Sherpa, cook, kitchen helper, and Liaison Officer wages and allowances

✅ Insurance for all Climbing Sherpas, cooks, Liaison Officer, and local porters

✅ Backup Sherpas on standby for substitution if required (extra charge if deployed)

 

✅ 5 oxygen cylinders (4-litre) per climber with personally fitted summit mask and regulator set

✅ 2 oxygen cylinders (4-litre) per Climbing Sherpa

✅ Emergency backup oxygen pre-positioned at Camp III and Camp IV before the summit push

✅ Expedition Doctor stationed at Dhaulagiri Base Camp for the full climbing season

✅ Gamow Bag (portable hyperbaric chamber) on standby at Base Camp

 

✅ Helicopter and rescue team on standby — pre-arranged before departure from Kathmandu

✅ Puja ceremony at Dhaulagiri Base Camp before climbing begins

✅ AltiPro expedition T-shirt and Dhaulagiri summit certificate

 

Excludes

❌ International flight tickets to and from your home country

❌ Nepal entry visa fee — obtainable on arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport

❌ Personal climbing gear, clothing, boots, and high-altitude equipment

❌ Personal satellite messenger device (Garmin inReach or similar)

❌ Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara except the included welcome and farewell dinners

❌ Personal expenses: drinks, laundry, telephone, and Wi-Fi at teahouses

 

❌ Travel, medical, and high-altitude helicopter rescue insurance (Min. USD 100,000) — mandatory for all participants

❌ Summit bonus: USD 1,600 per Climbing Sherpa and USD 300 for kitchen helpers — payable in cash at Base Camp after a successful Dhaulagiri summit

❌ Tips for trekking guides, mule handlers, and porters on the Kali Gandaki approach

 

❌ Extra costs due to personal baggage exceeding 60 kg

❌ Drone and special filming permit fees

❌ Costs incurred due to road delays, landslides, flight cancellations, or political disruptions

 

Departure

Departure

From

Apr 10, 2027

To

May 29, 2027

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Expedition Details

Peak Name

Dhaulagiri Expedition

Duration

35-40 Days

Max Elevation

8,167 m / 26794.62 ft

Best Seasons

Autumn

Region

Dhaulagiri Himal

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Route Map

Dhaulagiri Expedition Route Map
Map view of Dhaulagiri Expedition

Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to common questions about this expedition

Yes, every climber on the Dhaulagiri Expedition is provided with a dedicated Climbing Sherpa, maintaining a strict 1:1 ratio. These Sherpas are not shared with other clients at any point. Additional Sherpa support can be arranged upon request to further personalize your expedition experience.

Dhaulagiri is graded D (Difficult) and is an extremely demanding undertaking. It is significantly more technical than Manaslu or Cho-Oyu. The route involves steep ice on the Northeast Col approach, sustained technical ridge work between Camps II and III, and an exposed, corniced summit ridge. Its notorious weather patterns often create very narrow and rapidly shifting summit windows, requiring elite mental and physical resilience

Dhaulagiri is significantly more technical than Manaslu. It serves as an excellent "stepping-stone" for Everest; the technical ridge work and sustained duration in the Death Zone develop the specific skills and resilience required for the Everest South Col route.

The Dhaulagiri Expedition takes approximately 50 days in total. This includes arrival in Kathmandu, the 5-day natural acclimatization trek through the Kali Gandaki Valley, three structured rotations on the mountain, the summit push, and the scenic exit via the Hidden Valley and Dhampus Pass

No, Dhaulagiri is generally not recommended as a first 8,000m peak. Due to its technical demands and historical risk profile, it is best suited for veteran climbers who have already successfully summited at least one other 8,000m peak, such as Manaslu or Cho-Oyu

Yes. We require documented climbing experience above 7,000 meters, ideally including a successful 8,000m summit. Proficiency in fixed-rope management on steep ice, advanced crampon technique, and the ability to operate in a remote, high-altitude environment is essential for this expedition.

The major risks include high objective avalanche hazards on the Northeast Ridge, technical fall risks on sustained steep sections, extreme cold, and unpredictable weather patterns. Dhaulagiri's historical death rate is nearly double the Nepal 8,000m average, making precision timing and safety protocols critical.

The best time is the Spring season (April and May). We target the summit push for the second half of May when post-winter snow has consolidated and the jet stream moves north, providing the most stable 48-hour weather windows.

Here are the main permit fees and required government permits if you want to climb Dhaulagiri:

  • Climbing Permit for Dhaulagiri: Official royalty issued by the Nepal Government (MoCTCA). Fees for foreign climbers are approximately $1,800 USD in Spring and $900 USD in Autumn.
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): Required for the approach through the Kali Gandaki Valley ~$25 USD .
  • TIMS Card: Mandatory for trekking through the Beni–Jomsom corridor ~$15 USD .

Liaison Officer: A government-appointed official who accompanies the team to ensure adherence to regulations.

Safety is our core priority. We implement international standards to minimize risks:

  • Elite Leadership & Sherpa Support: 1:1 dedicated Climbing Sherpa ratio for every member.
  • Pre-Dawn Movement Protocol: Transitions above Camp II are scheduled for pre-dawn hours to mitigate solar-induced avalanche risks.
  • Expert Medical Support: An on-site Expedition Doctor at Base Camp with daily SpO2 monitoring.
  • Advanced Weather Tracking: 6-hourly summit-specific forecasts to identify precise 48-hour windows.
  • Redundant Safety Systems: 5 oxygen cylinders per climber, emergency oxygen pre-positioned at Camps III and IV, Gamow bags at Base Camp, and pre-arranged helicopter rescue standby.

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