Phurba Gyaljen Sherpa

Phurba Gyaljang Sherpa is a highly experienced Nepali mountaineering guide from Khaadbari-2, Sankhuwasabha, with nearly a decade of professional high-altitude expedition experience across the Himalayas. Growing up in the shadow of Nepal's great mountains inspired his passion for climbing and shaped his career as one of Nepal's trusted expedition professionals. Through years of technical training and practical experience, he has earned a reputation for professionalism, leadership, and unwavering commitment to safety in some of the world's most demanding mountain environments.

His mountaineering career began in 2016 with expeditions to Makalu and Manaslu. During his first Makalu expedition, he reached Camp IV at approximately 7,800 meters, gaining valuable experience on one of the world's most challenging 8,000-meter peaks. The same year, he also participated in a Manaslu expedition, laying the foundation for a successful career in Himalayan guiding.

Over the following years, Phurba steadily progressed through increasingly technical and higher-altitude objectives. In 2017, he participated in multiple Everest expeditions, reaching elevations of 6,700 and 7,000 meters before returning to successfully summit the mountain in 2019. Since then, he has completed three successful ascents of Mount Everest (2019, 2024, and 2025), demonstrating consistent performance and reliability on the world's highest peak.

Beyond Everest, Phurba has successfully summited several renowned Himalayan mountains, including Kanchenjunga, Annapurna I, Lhotse, and multiple successful ascents of Manaslu. His extensive climbing portfolio also includes Ama Dablam, Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mera Peak, Lobuche East, Lobuche West, Chulu East, and Imja Tse (Island Peak). These expeditions have allowed him to gain broad experience across technical alpine climbs, expedition peaks, and 8,000-meter mountains.

Throughout his career, Phurba has worked alongside both international expedition teams and respected national organizations, including the Nepal Army and the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). His responsibilities have included expedition support, route preparation, client assistance, summit logistics, and high-altitude safety management. His ability to remain calm under pressure and make sound decisions in extreme environments has made him a dependable guide for climbers from around the world.

Phurba's technical expertise is backed by comprehensive professional training. He has completed Basic Mountain Rescue, High Mountain Rescue Training, Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training, Trekking Guide Training, Rock Climbing Level One, Introductory Rock Climbing, and Basic Rescue Course through the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association (NMIA) and the Nepal Academy of Tourism and Hotel Management (NATHM). In 2023, he also participated in the Himlung Himal Mountaineering Research Expedition organized by the Nepal Mountain Academy, further strengthening his knowledge of expedition management and high-altitude operations.

In addition to mountaineering, Phurba possesses extensive trekking experience throughout Nepal's diverse Himalayan regions. He has led and participated in treks across the Dhaulagiri Circuit, Makalu Base Camp, Amphu Lapcha Pass, Kang La Pass, and the Langtang region. These journeys have enhanced his understanding of mountain navigation, wilderness survival, local culture, and expedition logistics, making him a well-rounded guide for both trekking and climbing adventures.

Environmental conservation remains an important part of his professional philosophy. Phurba has actively participated in multiple mountain clean-up campaigns organized by the Nepal Army and the Rotary Club, contributing to the preservation of Nepal's fragile Himalayan ecosystem. His dedication reflects a strong belief that future generations should experience mountains that are both safe and environmentally protected.

Clients consistently appreciate Phurba's calm personality, patience, and attention to detail. His strong communication skills, adaptability, and client-focused approach create a supportive atmosphere where climbers feel confident throughout every stage of their expedition. Whether assisting experienced mountaineers or first-time Himalayan climbers, he emphasizes thorough preparation, responsible decision-making, and teamwork while maintaining the highest standards of safety.

Today, Phurba Gyaljang Sherpa continues to guide expeditions across Nepal's highest mountains, combining years of practical experience with advanced technical knowledge and genuine Sherpa hospitality. His proven track record on Everest and numerous other Himalayan peaks, together with his commitment to safety, environmental stewardship, and exceptional client service, makes him a valued member of the AltiPro Adventures guiding team.